Mackenzie would be finishing up her first year at the
University of Arizona in a few days.
We flew to Tucson early Tuesday morning. I mean like leave
the house at 3:30 AM early. When we are on vacation, we don’t like to waste a
second!
Since we were going to be out here for a week. I used this
as an opportunity to get an overnight backpacking trip in. Not just any trip,
but the redemption of the trip
that didn’t quite end the way I wanted to in 2016.
Finishing the Arizona Trail trip from Molino Basin to
Summerhaven.
Tuesday and Wednesday fly by, we have a great little place
in the Catalina Foothills and Kiki has her final, final. We celebrate.
Thursday morning, I get ready for my Lyft ride to pick me up
at 5:30 AM. It was only 12 hours ago that I decided not to chicken out and go
through with it. I have my doubts. Am in in good enough shape? can I do all
this elevation gain? among other niggling self-doubts I had.
I planned this trip accordingly. I gave myself a bailout
point half way through the first day. It would be fine.
My ride shows up, it turns out to be the most interesting
ride share ever. It’s only her fifth day with Lyft. She is new and unfamiliar familiar
with the area. She has a History PHD but no job. Lots of student debt. Turns
out doctorates in history don’t make a lot nor are the prospects all that
great. Even she admits this. Since she is not familiar with the area, I tell
her how to get there. Its one road and one road only. Yet she keeps looking
down at her phone on her lap. The problem is, the Catalina Highway is a 2-lane
mountain road. She is going too fast, breaking too hard and tuning too late. I
was nervous, which is rare for me in these circumstances. To top it off when we
got to my stop, neither of us had cell service. She freaked out that she
wouldn’t get paid. I gave he my phone number and said I would take care of it
of she didn’t get paid and to call me if that were the case.
Here I am, not quite 6 AM all by myself in the campground.
Sun is about to start peeking over the mountains. I breathe it all in. 1 night 25
or so miles. Something that I had wanted to re attempt almost instantly after
failing to get here the first time. Here I am. No quitting, no turning around.
Time to start walking.
The trail starts out relatively flat but as the sun creeps
over the eastern ridge and everything starts warming up. Eventually, I stop put
a bit of sunscreen on and whip out my new hat. It had forgot to pack my
standard large brimmed hat that I usually sport for these trips. I now have this
baseball- legionnaires hat. Quite fun, quite functional. The weather is
seasonal, It might hit the low 80’s. Unlike the last time where we…. (I will
add we in here on occasion as I will
refer to my friend Mike, who accompanied me on the first attempt.) attempted
and were assaulted with 95° temps for the entire trip. Very unseasonal indeed.
My first major point of interest comes a little less than 2
miles in. The
Gordon Hirabayashi Campground. Formerly a prison camp as well as internment
camp for Japanese in WWII. It has horse corrals as well. Part of the trail is
multi use; Hiking, Bike and Horse.
The next stop is the Sycamore
Canyon Reservoir. Very strange seeing a dam built here. The lake that was
once behind is small if nonexistent do to all the rock and soil that has washed
into it. I stop here take my pack off,
drink some water and enjoy a snack.
After about 20 minutes I leave the reservoir and get back on
trail. I am daydreaming and thinking of
so many things I realize the trail no longer looks right. I am just walking up
a dry stream bed. I consult the map and my gps bearing. Yep, I missed my turn,
so I double back. Added almost an extra mile in total. Duh. I easily picked up
the trail, but to my credit the almost U-Turn was not marked and easy to miss.
From this point on its about 2 miles to Shreve Saddle and
the Bear Canyon Trail. My bailout point. The trail that will quite literally
take me right back in to Tucson and were we are staying. I send a message on
the satellite thingy (another item that would have been beneficial last time)
to Tracy, I am feeling good (I was!) and I am going to continue. No going back
now.
After a long hike down into the canyon a run into 3 teens.
Asking me if I know were Seven Falls is. I do. (of course I do). Its on the
Bear Canyon Trail that I just came from. About 2 miles back (then another 3
miles on that trail) and 1500 ft up. They then ask me about Hutch’s Pool. I also
know where this is, it is where I am heading. Another 2-3 miles away. They were
obviously looking for some water fun, but really didn’t research where or what
trail they needed to use to get there. They decided not to follow me and went
back the way they came.
A little over an hour later I finally arrived at Hutch’s
Pool. A large reliable water source in
these mountains. Very popular for swimming and diving. One end of the pool is
20 feet deep or more and the cliffs to jump off were at least 20’ up. The water
was flowing well and man was it cold. I called it Lake Michigan Cold. I waded
in as high as I could without actually getting my shorts wet (rolled up). The
cold was numbing but at the same time felt great on my feet and muscles.
It was 11 AM. The plan was to relax, eat lunch and hang out
until 2. This missing the heat and sun of the mid day.
After my little ‘swim’ I made lunch. Bean burrito with
cheese and a little bottle of hot sauce I had picked up when I bought my hat.
It was amazing how good these were. Well it could have been the appetite I had
built up over the last 5 hours or so. These will be in my normal rotation, that
is for sure. I also had some of the other snacks I had brought. My candy bars
were, well, not edible. Too warm and they were just goo in a wrapper. Being at
such a nice water source I also drink my fill.
Speaking of water, this would be my last place to get water
until half way through my day tomorrow. Even though there has been great
snowfall, the upper parts of these mountains start to get dry once into May. I
didn’t want to wager my ability to find any water so I would load up here. That
meant enough to drink to get me to the camp site, dinner, breakfast (COFFEE!)
and then water to get me to Lemmon Creek, over 2000 ft of climb and 6 miles
from camp.
I filter 6 liters of water, just to be safe. Water is heavy.
I was now carrying over 13 pounds of water. Almost doubling by dry pack weight.
Also, about 5 pounds more than I started with this morning.
Eventually some dudes joined me at the pool and shortly
after a couple started setting up camp nearby. Time to get out. I talked to the
guys a little, but it was after 1:30, close enough to my 2:00 established exit
time. I was fed, rested and ready for more.
Originally this was to be the spot Mike and I would have
stopped at on the original plan. And what a great camp site it would have been. I decided to go about 3 more miles. This
would take me to Cathedral Junction. The idea is to climb about 800 feet this
afternoon, after my nice break, to get a jump on the large climb looming
tomorrow.
It would prove to be a little hard but worth it. The canyon was a slow climb, but was in among
large trees keeping me shaded and a somewhat surreal change from the high
desert vegetation of the morning.
About a tenth of a mile from the junction I found the
perfect site. Trees to hang my hammock and an existing fire pit. I never
checked the fire restrictions before I left, so to be safe, I opted not to have
one. No matter it was good to get my pack off and relax. I hung my hammock. It
wasn’t quite 4:00 so I took a nap. I did set an alarm for two and a half hours
just so I wouldn’t sleep too long and have to make diner in the dark. Or worse,
sleep through the night and miss a meal.
The clouds had been on and off all day and they finally broke
just as the sun started to set, I was treated to a little sliver of red and
orange on the top of the canyon ridge as I made dinner.
Speaking of dinner, I had my other low water favorite meal,
the All-American burger. Rehydrated hamburger crumbles with cheese, onions,
relish and fixings all on those versatile tortillas. Not sure what it is about
that meal. Maybe the ease of prep, uses only 4 ounces of water or that it’ not
some super-hot steaming thing to sweat over when its too warm. Could be that it’s
just tasty.
Anyway, with that out of the way it was time for dessert. Peach
and blueberry crumble. Serves two, or one me. Nice end to the day.
The clouds rolled back in. I requested a weather report from
my inReach. A very handy feature to use when you have no cell service. Giving you
location specific weather for 2-3 days. Of course, there was a ten percent chance
of rain. Didn’t bring any rain gear, didn’t bring a rain fly to sleep under. I
mean I guess I should know better; I have pretty bad luck when it comes to
rain.
I crawled back into my hammock around 9:30 and listened to
all the birds. Specifically, a lone Whippoorwill that was perched nearby. It never
shut up.Oh well, I am a guest here so I won’t complain. I eventually fell asleep only to be woken by
the rush of wind and a splash or rain hitting my face through the bug net. Ten
percent chance, more like ninety percent for me. It didn’t last long and I just
pulled my quilt up and fell back to sleep.
The next morning was much of the same, grey and about 45
degrees. I made some coffee and went back to sit on my hammock, porch swing style.
I had some oatmeal and a protein shake for breakfast then
packed up. Today would not be as long, about 9 miles or so, but there were some
hard climbs. The Arizona Trail Guidebook lists this section of trail as strenuous.
The maximum level in the book.
Back on trail before seven AM. The first milestone would be Romero
Pass. A junction of several trails and the halfway point of my first major
climb.
The weather was cool and that was a boon as I got pretty
lathered up climbing some 1000’ over the first 2 miles.
Eventually, I made it to the pass. A bit of elation swelled.
The confidence was high. I turned to take the Mt. Lemmon trail. It went
straight up. I hit the first major peak at around three and a half miles and
having climbed over 2100’ in that time. I would dip from here to about 7000’ in
elevation only to have one more climb back to 8000’. 2 weeks ago, I was
struggling with my self, could I do this? Well, here I was and the doubt was
unfounded.
At the next trail junction, I entered the Wilderness of Rocks
trail. It was one of those amazing places with huge boulders balanced here and
there, very hard to explain but enchanting none the less. Definitely one of
those places to come back to and do further exploration.
It was here a giant bug flew by and landed about 10 feet in
front of me. It was a huge wasp. I got closer to see it was a tarantula hawk. One of
the largest wasps in existence and, well, you guessed it hunts tarantulas for
food and home for its larva.
From here I eventually made it to Lemmon Creek, another reasonably
reliable water source according to the guides. And it was. A clear, cold spring
fed creek, running and burbling though a small canyon. Break time. I drop my
pack, sit on a log, which is at perfect bench height. Have some snacks, drink a
lot of water and filter some more to get me to the end. Another one of those
places you want to come back to or spend more time here.
After about a half hour I decided it was time to push on. That
last climb was still in front of me. I put my pack on and off I went. Not too
bad. Again, very different vegetation from here on out. Large pine trees now
began to take over in spots.
Eventually, I reach the last trail junction, Marshall Gulch.
From here I would be on trail that I actually traversed some four years ago. A
wonderful little trail that follows an ever-growing creek though a small gulch.
It is very green and full of pine trees and Albert’s squirrels.
Running all over with their large furry ears. Wanting to come close to me but
never quite getting the nerve.
Eventually, I see the trailhead and sign. I have made it to
Summerhaven. The trail was done for me at this point but the adventure was not.
My plan was to either get a Lyft or Taxi down from here. Or
Hitchhike since there really only is one road back down into Tucson. It couldn’t
be that hard.
I started walking into town from the trailhead, spotted the
Cookie Cabin and said to myself, actually, I probably said it out loud, as I
tend to talk to myself when in the woods alone. That might be a good place for
lunch while I wait for my ride.
I ordered 2 hot dogs, one chili cheese and the other just
normal. Now, it could have been my hunger from all the hiking I did, but that
was quite possibly one of the best chili dogs I had ever had. A quarter pound all beef dog on a toasted hearty
roll that could stand up to all that chili, cheese and onions. An actual chili dog
that required no fork because it had fell apart half way through. Enough said.
While waiting for my food, I got on the cabin Wi-Fi, because
cell service is still spotty and called for a Lyft. After 5 or 6 attempts no
driver wanted this fare. I tried Uber. Same result. Not good but I still have
options. After lunch I walk further into town, sticking my thumb out. No one
stopped and only one slowed down. No matter, I really wasn’t feeling it and
didn’t try too hard after that.
I found my way to the community center, which is hiker friendly.
I let Tracy and Kiki know they would have to come get me at this point. I spent
the next hour or so with Jerry, who was manning the visitor booth for the day. We
had some nice conversations between visitors.
At 4:00 the place closes and Jerry went to take the flag
down. He brought it for me to help fold it. When I saw him taking it down, I
just knew he was going to do that. All my scout training came rushing back as
we did the fold and tri fold to finish.
Not long after that the girls showed up and thus brought my
adventure to a close. Couldn’t have scripted that any better.
It was a great trip. Trail demons exorcised and self-doubts
put to rest.
NEW!!!!!
Video Here