First, a little background for this trip. My friend Mike had moved out to Colorado and over the last few weeks I had been listening and watching the videos from his recent forays in backpacking. Mike has done some backpacking with me in Arizona and in Minnesota and now he was working his way through the Colorado Trail that has a starting point almost in his backyard.
The Colorado Trail is a nearly 500-mile trail that traverses a large swath of the Rocky Mountains, starting in Denver and ending in Durango. It also shares some of its path with the Continental Divide Trail, a 3100-mile trek from Mexico to Canada along the Rocky Mountain range.
The Colorado Trail is divided into 32 sections and so far, Mike has done 1 through 5. We got to talking and I casually asked If he would mind some company in the future. By future I meant within the next few weeks as my window of opportunity would be very short, with school starting and then the weather getting colder in the mountains.
Mike was a little reluctant at first, nah, of course he would be happy to enjoy some company on his next trip. It was then we got to the planning. We agreed that sections 6 and 7 would be the logical choice. Because Mike has seen 1-5 twice (he has to double back with no shuttle) and this was the next closest and probably easiest to do car shuttle.
6 and 7 would take us about 47 ‘map’ miles. We figured we would need 3 nights to do it enjoyably with not killing ourselves. Mike took the honors of figuring our approximate daily distances, as well as shuttle positions. While he did that, I busted out some free airfare, courtesy of some points I had and it was on!
It was only 3 weeks away and as it grew closer, I stepped up my cardio by running every other day, even getting Joel to sign up with me for a 13K trail run. Heart and legs ready, my only worry was the altitude. I would have a day to acclimate to 10,000-12,000 ft of altitude.
Day Zero
Wednesday morning, I flew to Denver, where Mike picked me up and we dropped all my stuff at his place.
From there he took me directly to Red Rocks (also the music theater) for what else? A hike. We figured anything at elevation higher than what I was living at would be a good start and this got us up over 7,000’. No one tells you but Denver is very warm in the summer, we did this 7+ mile hike in 90° heat. Which made it all the tougher. This is Mikes hiking training ground as it is literally a few minutes from his place. He’s very lucky because it is a very pretty place to play.
We earned some DQ blizzards for our efforts.
From there we went back to Mike’s cleaned up, changed and did a few pre trip errands (Grocery and REI). From there we ended the day as with some pizza and beer.
Day 1 (8/1/19) And it Starts
One of the cool parts of this trip is Mike owns two cars so we can shuttle and leave one at the beginning and the end and not have to worry about expensive shuttle services or unreliable ride shares. The not so cool thing is, one of the cars he owns is a first gen Mazda Miata. It becomes a little under-powered with the thin air. Oh yea, there is not much of a trunk in that thing. No Backseat either. I had to ride shotgun with a backpack on my lap for 45 minutes. Mike thought this was pretty damn funny.
With the cars dropped we were finally ready to hit the trail. It was about 2:00 PM when we started. Kenosha Pass 10,0000 ft elevation.
The plan was to do about 8 miles today, a short day but with a late start it would be fine. Plus, it would help with my acclimation.
As we start it’s hard not to notice some of the clouds. As is with the Rocky Mountains the afternoons can be prone to thunderstorms. That and I was on the trail. I do have a knack for rain when hiking.
We aren’t but a mile or two in and the sprinkles start. Then stop, then thunder, then sprinkles then it stops again. I stop to put the rain cover on my pack. That should appease the rain gods and stop this on and off showers.
Nope. About 30 minutes later it starts to pour. Big, heavy, plunking drops. It rains enough to soak my hat so that the water runs off the brim like a roof. We tough it out and decide we don’t need any other rain gear for the time being. Mike thinks it will pass and at this point it’s somewhat refreshing.
Only 5 miles in and the hike is great. The views are spectacular. Mountains, meadows, forests and ample streams. Last winter was one of the heaviest snow packs the area had received a long time and the water was evident (so were the mosquitoes).
A few more miles and we gather enough water for camp and breakfast tomorrow.
We set up camp just in time to be sheltered from another 30-minute rain shower. 30 minutes in my hammock and I was almost asleep. Once that ended, we made dinner but didn’t hang out too much as the bugs were pretty bad.
A few people on mountain bikes flew down the trail just above our campsite all evening long. We later found out that there was a trail long bike race and we were in the middle of it. This is a multi-use trail, Hikers, Bikers and Horses get to share.
We both retire to our quarters and trail off to sleep.
Miles: 8.79
Highest Altitude: 10,692’
Lowest Altitude: 9,771’
Total Elevation Gain: 1,706’
Total Elevation Loss: 1,017’
Day 2 (8/2/2019)
The morning broke and I woke up less than rested. During the night I woke up frequently with a pretty good headache. Probably a bit dehydrated and possibly feeling the effects of sleeping at altitude. I cursed myself for packing the Tylenol in the food bag, which was in my bear bag which was tied to a tree some distance from camp. Due to this it was way too much effort to get up and take care of it, I suffered. Tonight, I will keep the meds with me in case it happens again.
When I finally did get up, I took that Tylenol and made some coffee, what better way to boot a headache?
We eat and break camp. Back on trail by 8:00 AM. This is a huge improvement over the last few trips Mike and I were on, where we tended to lollygag. The earlier start, the more time for lollygagging in the evening. Today would be our big mile day of over 18 miles.
The sun is out and the rain is gone. This first part of the day we head up and over the tree line and a slow ascent to Georgia Pass. This also gives us the closest and fullest view of Mt Guyot we will see all trip. It’s at this point we finally merge with the CDT. We also hit our highest spot on the trail so far at over 11,700‘. I am getting used to it, not as good as Mike, but better than yesterday.
We meet a lot of people on the trail today. Bikers that whiz by and hikers we swap positions with as everyone has different picture spots and rest breaks. Our pace is pretty leisurely. That’s the way we wanted this. Enough miles to make it a challenge but as the same time no rush to get somewhere. We take a few breaks at water sources and near trail campsites. Trying to soak our feet for more than a few seconds at a time in these ice-cold streams and rivers. The weather today (and the remainder of the trip) is nothing short of perfect. Sunny, breezy, not too hot and the nights cool but not cold.
At about 2:30 PM we start our final ascent followed by a 'quick' 1000' decent. At about 14-15 miles for the day my feet are starting to feel the rocks and work they are being put through.
With about 2 miles left we catch up with an (ahem) older gentleman. I say older but this is the pot calling the kettle black at this point. We learn Terry is a longtime outdoors man with a lot of miles and experience under his belt. He is also recently retired after selling off the organic chicken business he was CIO of. We also find out we are all camping at the same spot tonight.
It’s a long day and we finally get to camp about 6:00 PM. We all find suitable sites (or trees for me) and make a little dinner. One more hiker, Jules, joins our party.
By now the sun is starting to set and it has picked a fine place to do it. So much so, that someone has gone through the hassle of bringing a bench and mounting it to the ground for this sole purpose. Watching the sunset in the mountains.
All four of us sit together on this bench and watch the colors change as the sun says goodnight and dips behind the next range in front of us.
Miles: 18.4
Highest Altitude: 11,756’
Lowest Altitude: 9,847’
Total Elevation Gain: 2,795’
Total Elevation Loss: 3,468’
Day 3 (8/3/2019) Town Time.
I slept much better, no headaches this time. I get up make coffee and try to east a little something for breakfast. When I am this active for some reason, I lose my appetite. I eat because I need to not because I want to. It’s odd to me because I like to eat. Its also clear at this point I have brought enough food to last me 4 to 5 nights not just the 3 we planned.
Our merry band is packing up and we talk about everyone’s plans. Terry has a truck at the Gold Trailhead in Breckenridge. We will all meet there. Everyone has their own pace and not everyone hikes together, but eventually you all meet up.
Jules is through hiking the trail and is staying the night a hostel in Breckenridge. She has laundry to do and food to resupply. It’s what’s known as a Zero (no mile day) or a Nero (near no mile day).
Terry is staying at his sister-in-law’s condo for much the same reasons. Terry even offered us a place to stay if we wanted. We decline the hospitality as we are not though hiking but we do take him up on the ride into town from the trail head. We get dropped off at Breckenridge Brewing for lunch (even though it’s only 10:30AM). We say goodbye and good luck to Jules and Terry. Except I left my phone on the seat in his truck and after 30 minutes or I get it back and say good bye yet again.
Mike and I order some food and a beer, use a real bathroom and enjoy an extended break. We watch all the summer tourists mill up and down the main street of this Ski town.
Eventually, we catch the free bus that gets us within ¼ mile of the trail head where we left off. That was the plan if we didn’t meet Terry, bus in and out for free. Very convenient!
Needless to say, hiking on a full belly was not the best. On top of that the first few miles out of town were almost all up and the sun was out in force. It got hot.
We meet an 18-year-old kid named “Deke”. Deke was a big boy and he was attempting to solo through hike the trail before he starts college in Denver in the fall. We could tell that his commitment to through hiking the trail was wavering based on the conversation and his pace. As much as I hope he made it I have my doubts. We ended up hiking with him for a mile or two but eventually he fell behind and we never saw him again.
While this morning’s miles flew by, the afternoon’s seemed to drag. We weren’t going any slower it just felt like it.
We hit a decent river and almost decided to call it a day. There were many great campsites in the area and the water was a sirens song that was hard to resist. Stronger wills prevailed, there was a lot of daylight left. We watered up and soldered on. If we could do another 500’ climb over the next mile to mile and a half it would only get us that much closer to the final climb tomorrow.
It ended up to be a great call. We walked into what would be camp tonight with some amazing sites. The Miner River would be right behind us and there were plenty of logs and stumps for seating.
As we set up another hiker, Jenny, came and grabbed a spot not too far from ours. Then maybe a half hour later a tall lanky kid, Kaleb, camped with us. Oh, but the fun doesn’t end there. Eventually Brian and Seth join the party.
Seth was an interesting kid. Late twenties and a college math teacher. He had thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2015 and was also a very established hiker. He sat with us and made dinner. We swapped stories and talked for some time when he decided that there was plenty of light, left packed up and headed back on trail. We wished him well and off he went.
As I mentioned previously, we had quite the party. But it gets better. While we were chatting with Seth, a couple drives their Toyota 4Runner to the edges of the camp. Apparently, there is a few logging and ATV trails in the area. We are all wondering what is going on.
We eventually find out they came up to give Jenny a bit of support. We walk over to see what is going on and before you know it, we are enjoying some ‘support’ as well in the form of a cold Leinenkugel’s Summer Shandy. We sit around and talk until its almost dark. Victor (Truck owner) and his girlfriend need to get going as they are camping somewhere down the mountain tonight. They have yet to set up the tent.
We all say good night and retire for the evening. The river sings some of the best lullabies.
Miles: 12.08
Highest Altitude:10,602’
Lowest Altitude:9,144’
Total Elevation Gain 2,448’
Total Elevation Loss 1,988’
Day 4 (8/4/2019) The Summit
We woke up to a beautiful sunrise. Everyone around is doing their morning chores; breakfast, breaking camp, making coffee. Not in any particular order.
Today is the last day but it is no slouch. We will top out at almost 12,500’. Right now, we are about 10,000’. To get an idea what is ahead of us the we will hit the top of our climb less than 4 miles into the day or around 700’ of elevation gain per mile.
Even though we made some friends everyone leaves on their own when they are ready. Jenny, Kaleb, then Mike and I and finally Brian a little later. We would never see Jenny or Kaleb again. Brian eventually catches up with us. Because Mike and I are enjoying the journey at this point, taking pictures and taking in the incredible scenery. We eventually work our way past the tree line and the views really open up, rock fields and hidden meadows with streams and leftover snow pack.
We eventually hit the first saddle and catch our breath. Eyes squinting as the trail slowly winds up the side of the mountain only to disappear above us. Every now and then we can see occasional hikers popping up and then disappearing as they work their way up the trail.
The ascent feels like it may never end, every time we think we are close we realize that we are really not. Switchbacks and outcrops above hiding the trail from our view. As we get closer the snow we see is incredible. Its August and there are walls of it. Many still with wind whipped cornices still hanging on.
We finally reach the top. Well at least the top as far as the trail goes. The air is thin and cool and the views seem to never end. We look down into Breckenridge and see where we were just a day ago. So far away. The feeling of accomplishment feeds my inner self, I feel giddy. Or perhaps it’s the lack of oxygen. We soak it all in. Unfortunately, the realization sets in. What goes up, must come down.
Walking uphill is all cardio and muscles. Downhill, is a leg, joint and feet aching good time. My feet will feel this when I am done.
It starts out steady but quite a few times turns steep. Add in some loose soil and rocks and you can and will slide. I do, but never fall completely. I have amazed myself with these feats of balance. No one else is around to see it though. I have lost Mike on the trail a way back. He is ever the diligent videographer, shooting every shot from every angle. I look back and he’s not even in sight. That’s ok, we are all going to end at the same place today anyway
I continue my hike, passing snow melt trickles and all the wildflowers that go along with it. Back into the large pine forest, through a recent avalanche area and eventually to the Copper Mountain Trailhead. I find the pavement and look at the parking lot. A fellow hiker offers a banana. Dare I say it was one of the best I had ever had (Well it was at the time).
I am coming down off the physical high. My feet are sore, so I find a spot near the trail to wait for Mike. Eventually, I can hear him, well before I can see him. “who is he talking to now?” I think to myself. When he does pop out of the trees where I can see him, it looks like a familiar hiker is with him. Sure shit, it’s Terry from the other day. He was finishing section 7 as a day hike. Now, the shoe was on the other foot now. Terry was looking for ride back into Breckenridge. It’s all very trail centric karma. We load up the car and we hit a gas station for cold drinks and possibly an ice cream treat or two before we leave.
We get Terry back to his car. Wish him well and we head back to Kenosha Pass to get our other car. Time to get back to civilization.
Miles: 9.45
Highest Altitude:12,425’
Lowest Altitude:9,824’
Total Elevation Gain 2,145’
Total Elevation Loss 2,838’
Day 5 (8/5/19)
Because I have a late flight home today, Mike the super host, has a trip to Colorado Springs planned. We visit the Garden of the Gods and the Air Force academy. Very nice additions to my time here.
On the flight I reflected on whet was a great trip. The trail, the scenery, the good company and new memories made. I really couldn’t ask for much more and it was a welcome break from the work and the real world if even for only a few days.
Can’t wait until the next trip.
FULL PHOTO ALBUM HERE
MIKE'S VIDEO HERE
My Video may be out in a a few months....
