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Friday, July 27, 2018


It’s been a while since I have written anything. All of my recent writings are about some new adventure I did and this will be no different. At least I am consistent with the content and this has morphed into a travel/life event platform for me. I see so many people posting daily drivel on Facebook, does anyone really care that much what you are doing at every moment? Short posts for short attention spans. Reading this is a commitment. It might take you ten minutes. Ten minutes you will never get back, but don’t say you weren’t warned.

A month and a half ago I realized I was going to be up in Minnesota for work and thought, hey I should really try to stretch a long weekend out of it and do a little hiking trip on the North Shore. I booked the flights the rental cars and started planning the route. Thursday into Sunday gave me over 3 full days to play with and time to extend myself.

With a milestone birthday looming that has been affecting my psyche more than any other, the route is about 47 miles. Not quite 50 but to take it another trailhead or double back jut to get that number seems a bit contrived. I know that there are side trails, looks outs and trails to campsites that should get me to that milestone number without too much effort.

The weeks leading up to this I begin to have doubts. Not sure why, I’m in pretty good shape, running a few times a week, but my neck has been flaring up more than I cared to admit.

A new work trip pops up, this one to Seattle, the week before this Minnesota trip. That means I will be gone From Wednesday to Friday, come home for the weekend and head back out Monday and not be back home until Sunday night (Monday morning). It’s not ideal because I am sure something will get missed now packing between trips but I make a few extra lists. I love lists.

Seattle in the summertime is a very nice place. I could and should do a separate write up on this trip alone. Maybe.



Anyway, the next Monday I complete packing my work bag and my backpack into checked luggage and off to Minnesota I go.

Work goes quickly and at night I meet with co workers for eats and drinks. I also have a few errands to run. Things like Target for a few food items, REI for a gas cannister (can’t take them on a plane), and then I realize I have no post trail shoes. My trail runners and my dress shoes, that’s all I have. The last two times I did this trail, I (we) got wet and muddy. I couldn’t wear wet muddy shoes through the airport or want to drive home in them. I have been on the search for a pair of camp shoes since I started doing this. Too heavy, no support, no foot protection, don’t stay on well. I had gone back and forth on a pair of Crocs for the task for a long time, but they are heavy and well, they are Crocs. I realize it’s time to re-look at them. The Mall of America has a Croc store, they have a new lighter version (25% lighter!) and they don’t look like Lego Dutch boy. All plusses. I bite and take a pair home. I must be getting old, I just gave in to Crocs. What’s next? Socks and Sandals? 4:30 early bird dinners? Winters in Florida? I shudder at the thought.

The next morning, I swap rental cars and start the 4-hour drive from Minneapolis to Schroeder Minnesota. It’s a boring, uneventful drive to Duluth and once through Duluth do you start to get some nice scenery. Highway 61 hugs the lakeshore all the way to Canada.

However, once you hit Two Harbors, you know you are getting close. I started passing all the spots I had hiked in the past. The state parks, the rivers, Split Rock Lighthouse. I pass the road where I will get dropped off to start the trip. Its also the place I stopped last time I was up here. Doing it this way I will have done a continuous section of the trail, with no repeating.

Over 20 minutes go by and I still have a way to go to get to my trailhead at Britton Peak. I really wonder if I over estimated my abilities, a modicum of doubt creeps in.

I finally pull into the parking lot. It’s a very nice trailhead, as it is shared with hikers and the mountain bike trails that start here. I am quite a bit early for my pick up and that’s ok, I have time to shakedown my gear and makes sure I don’t forget anything.

So far, the weather has been decent, although they are calling for a 50 percent chance of rain and thunderstorms tonight and for the next few days. It’s sunny now but will it last?

Finally, the shuttle service I contracted with shows up and I load up. Larry and I shoot the breeze for the ride and he’s impressed (or concerned?) with my ambitious mileage goals for the next three and a half days.  It doesn’t do much for my confidence either way.

Like a hitchhiker at his stop, Larry leaves me at the wayside of my choice. I flop the pack on the ground take a few pictures take a few deep breaths and start the walk. My pack is loaded, but not overly so. With food, water and camera gear it’s around 26 pounds. I have learned since taking 40 pounds into the mountains of Arizona. With old age comes experience and wisdom I guess.



Of course, the trail goes straight up from the drop point to Section 13, a popular destination with rock and free climbers.  There is also a ‘nuisance’ bear at the campsite for this area. Maybe I will see a bear? Neat. I walk the next few miles, go through a boardwalk in a bog, see a 15-foot-tall glacial erratic and the weather stays good, low 70’s mostly sunny. Beats work anytime.

Now this first day is about 10 miles as I didn’t want to get to camp too late since I didn’t get started until 2:00 PM anyway. Other than a few climbs it’s not to strenuous, and my body seems ok with a pack. It had been 5 months since I did this last.

The campsite is North Egge Lake. I have the place to myself. Obviously, being on a lake the water is easy to access and it makes for a peaceful spot.

I set up camp and set about a few chores, have my food bag to hang, make dinner, get water. I walk to the edge of the lake and there is a pair of swans right in the middle of it! Very peaceful, I think I am the only person on the lake today.


I take my water bag back to start filtering. Except the filter is not working. I should be able to squeeze water through and I am getting nothing. Are you kidding me? This is how my trip starts and ends? I mean I can boil water, but there is not enough gas for my stove to last, I could do it over a fire but my pot only holds 22 ounces a time anyway, I will be here all day. I then remember I do have backup purification tablets if I need to, but I don’t want to go there just yet. I keep trying, and finally I start getting a slow drip. I hang the water bag and the catchment bag on a tree and let it drip. Not the best but it’s something.

Back to dinner, the old favorite, Pack-it Gourmet All American Hamburger. Only takes 4 ounces of water, perfect for my low water situation. It’s also just tasty. Like taco meat that tastes like grilled hamburger and all the fixins’ on a tortilla. Simple and satisfying. I also had a snickers bar for dessert. The new espresso flavor. Not too bad. 




By this time I have drip filtered about 1 liter of water. Still not great, but I drink it up because I am thirsty. This time I have ditched the bladder and went with two bottles of water. I have about 16 ounces less water at any time but also less weight and bulk. Also, this area trail is littered with good water sources. Just stop and filter…if your filter works like it should.

I keep the filter to keep going and I get ready for bed. Its almost 9 and its getting cloudy, perhaps some of those overnight showers they predicted will come though soon.

By the way, I did get my shoes quite wet and muddy in one spot today, otherwise the trail is in really good condition. That said, my Crocs are wonderful, let me feet air out provide the cushion and protection around camp, I am officially converted.

With the food bag hung as high as ever and 2 liters of water filtered, I go to bed.

The next thing I know its 5:30 am. I lay in ‘bed’ until almost 6:30 because I have all day. I am on vacation anyway. When I do roll out, I am not sore anywhere, my neck is fine. Maybe I should sleep in a hammock at home?

I make coffee (instant), oatmeal (cooked) and peach protein smoothie (instant) for breakfast. It never rained last night and everything is dry. It’s still very overcast but so far so good.

Eventually I break camp and hit the trail before 9. Today is the longest day I have planned for the whole week. Over 16 miles to the East Caribou River Campsite. There are multiple bail out sites along the way if I am not feeling it, but that then makes the remainder of my days that much longer.
Today also has about 2500 feet of elevation gain along with 3200 feet of elevation loss. As long as I take a break when I feel the need I should be fine.

So far the weather has been good to me, but eventually it does start to sprinkle. I take a break, put some foot glide on and put my pack cover on to prep for the rain. Foot glide is just a fancy name for a lanolin-based lotion that helps keep the friction down on your feet (or other chafe-y bits) since my feet would be a bit wet with the rain I though it best to do it now.

The rain was short lived.

Today being Friday I did run into a few other hikers but honestly, I expected more.

Eventually I made it into George Crosby State park. I do a little extra detour to find a nice picnic area on a lake. I eat lunch, air my feet and shoes out and filter water. By this time the filter is starting to work better, I can actually start to squeeze water out of it and its more than a drip. This is a relief for sure. Not having adequate (clean) water can be stressful.

I pack up and head back to the trail. I have about 10 miles in with about 7 to go. The rain has stopped but its still and muggy. Because of this I drink a lot of water, and I am almost out by the time I get to the next source, but it’s not a great source and I end up skipping it.

Finally, I reach East Caribou campsite. A large YMCA youth group has it taken over. Luckily for me you are required to share and it’s a multi group site. This means I have a secondary site with fire ring and benches all to myself. I set up camp, change into my camp clothes (clean and dry) as well as my Crocs. I go to the river and drink it dry. Almost. Ok not even close but damn that was so good.
Working on dinner another group of four guys come in and we share the secondary site for the night. They are all around 26-28 years old and sociable. They offer me some of the brats and food they cook over the fire. They also have two dogs with them Ted and Bella. I stay up way too late hanging out with them by the fire….



They next morning it’s more of the same, lay in bed, eat, break camp and head out by around 9:00 AM. Again, no rush and the miles will be less today, less than the previous day anyway.

As I head out the YMCA group is half awake. Man, I wish I could sleep that late once in a while.

The day is overcast again, not sure if it will rain I decide to leave the pack cover off. This next section has several campsites along the way in which I can take a break, water up, have lunch or if worse comes to worse stop for the day.

As expected, the trail starts straight up, that’s the problem when you camp on these river spots. I eventually enter some heavy overgrowth on the trail, ferns and other plants all decide to give me their morning dew as I brush past. After a mile of this my pants are soaked, mid-thigh down, by shoes are soaked as well. At least the sun starts to peak out.

Eventually I decide to stop at Dyers Creek camp. I drop my pack, convert my pants to shorts, take off my shoes and socks, take off my shirt all to dry in the sun while I enjoy some snacks. I sun myself for about 20 minutes before a couple come in with the same idea, to stop for lunch. I gather up some of my gear as I am spread out all over the benches at this camp. They get to marvel in my pasty-white-farmer-tan having upper body, because I am not getting dressed until I am ready.

About 15 minutes later and after some conversation with them I finally head back out. Refreshed, dried out and ready for the next camp. They tell me Falls Camp is really nice, that’s where they were the night before. I take it under consideration although it is almost two miles short of my planned camp.

The sun is out in full now and it warms up. The trails has a few open spots as I do a sort of ridge walk and I pause to take in any breezes I can get.

Eventually the trail parallels the Cross River. I get to Falls Camp, hike up the hill. Take my pack off and scout around. Yeah, it’s ok but its only 3:30 in the afternoon and I could make tomorrow just that much shorter if I keep going. That’s it. I re-shoulder my pack and head back to the trail.

It’s almost 2 more miles until I get to the South Cross River camp, and there is a group of three already set up. No worries I ask if I could join them off to the side and set up camp.

Once that was done, I went to get water from the river and realized there was another camp right there on the river! I didn’t have to share anything and didn’t have to impose on the other hikers. What should I do? tear it all down and move? It turns out that I am extremely lazy at this point and say screw it. I will stay right where I am.


Made dinner of pasta Bolognese and another snicker bar. This time a hazelnut one. It’s ok, I would stick with normal or the espresso ones given a choice.

We are in a little canyon so the sun isn’t long in the campsite. I lounge in my hammock and pull out my Kindle. Yes, I have dragged this thing for 40 plus miles for 3 days now and this is the first time I even cracked it open. I read for an hour, then decide to move from sitting to laying down. I read for a little more as another hiker comes into the site and sets up. She talks with the others and doesn’t say anything to me. I don’t care I didn’t make myself too available anyway eating and reading in the hammock. As when at home the Kindle emits some form of sleeping gas and I fall asleep.

Sunday morning. I get up make coffee, eat, break camp and get ready to go to church. My church. The one with the trees and rivers and sunny skies. Every one but one person is still sleeping by the time I leave.

Today is the shortest mileage day of the trip at around 8 miles. I still like to start early as I have to get back to the airport which is as you know, is a 4-hour drive away. I also had my mind set on some lunch and a beer on the way home.

The morning walk is easy and eventually I make my way to the Temperance River. I follow this down to the state park with the same name. It’s a showy river with lots of falls, cauldrons and rushing water. I stop quite often to take pictures and shoot a little video.



Because it’s a weekend and there is easy access there are plenty of day hikers out today. I turn out of the park and head right back up the other bank as the trail turns north almost at the exact same place it came out from the south.

With the river behind me, I head to the next and last challenge of my trip. Up from the river at an elevation of 900 feet to the top of Carlton Peak at around 1600 feet. All within about a mile and a half.

Eventually Carlton peak is in my sights, it looks like a little mountain with granite showing at the top. I slowly make my way up the trail. I reach the split in the trail where one goes on and one goes to the summit. I head for the summit. Why would I come this far and not finish going another 150 feet up to get to the top? On the way I pass a family coming down. A little girl tells me I will love the view.
A few more minutes and she’s right. It’s a wonderful view. It’s also nice and breezy. I relax, take it in. I can see Silver Bay from up here as well as quite a ways into Lake Superior and surrounding area. There are also the remains of footings for what was once a fire tower. Eventually some other people come up and break my solitude. Time to finish the trip.



The rest of the way is all down hill and once down, all board walk to the parking lot. I can see why this has a lot of people, it’s an easy 4-mile round trip from the parking lot to the peak.

I cross the road and see my car in the parking lot. That’s it, I did it. Any doubts I had on my ability were for nothing. All told I did 50.3 miles. Milestone met.

I freshened up best as I could and changed into some clean clothes, when Larry the shuttle driver pulls up to let some others off. I laugh wave and yell “Hey Larry! Longtime no see.”

He smiles and said “seems like only yesterday!”

I finish going through my stuff and prep for the drive, in my Crocs.

I get to Two Harbors and stop at Blackwoods restaurant. Mike and I ate here and the food was good. It’s still good. I wolfed down a firehouse burger (Bacon, Pepper Jack Cheese, Onion strings, Jalapeños) and fries. I then head a few blocks down to Castle Danger Brewing for well-deserved end of trail beer on their very nice and very new deck. I savor the sun and the cool north shore temps.




As I start the remaining drive back I can’t help but think what’s next?


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