I had decided it would be either the section of North Country Trail that runs through northern Wisconsin or a segment of the Superior Hiking Trail in upper Minnesota.
The Superior Hiking Trail won out. I planned a 4 day 3 night trip that would cover almost 40 miles. I emailed Mike asking his opinion. He asked if I was looking for his input or asking him to come along. My answer was yes.
We coordinated schedules and Mike booked a flight. I guess the trip is on.
On Friday, I picked Mike up from the airport and he stayed with us overnight. On Saturday we began the 6 plus hour drive to Duluth. Pretty lousy drive for the first 2 hours as constant heavy rain kept the speeds to 40 mph for much of the time.
Eventually we get to Duluth and the hotel we were staying at. Which was another story in itself. Apparently the tall ships festival was in town this weekend and every hotel room within 100 miles of Duluth was booked. We were lucky to get this one for a reasonable amount of money.
So what did we do? We went to look at the tall ships. Well they were secondary to the worlds largest rubber duck. It was kind of cool and rainy most of the day, and the ships were interesting. A good way to pass a few hours.
We ate at Grandma's restaurant. Mike had some good history of the place. Overall, Mike was pretty excited to be in Minnesota. It's where he grew up. He had a lot of good stories and was even happier to purchase a 2016 Vikings media guide!
The next day we drove into Two Harbors, did a little sightseeing and had lunch. Which was awesome. Blackwoods restaurant if you are ever up there, we recommend it. From there we headed out to Silver Bay where we would leave my car and pick up the shuttle. This trail is used heavily and they actually have daily scheduled shuttle service. I reserved some room before we got up there. At 1:30 our transportation arrived. Earlier than anticipated. Infact he had called me that afternoon to tell me they might be up to 15 minutes later than the scheduled 1:44 time on the reservation.
The shuttle was dropping two hikers off and picking us up as well as transferring Sara from Grand Marais. Basically the end of the road for this trail. She had done some 160 miles in 12 days. and mostly by herself. Pretty cool. We talked with her and our driver as he made one more stop and then on to our starting point in Castle Danger (Castle Danger, where bond villains go for some 'up north' time).
Mike and I pulled our packs from the van said goodbye to Sara and off we went.
This trail doesn't have nearly the elevation that we encountered in Arizona, but it still was no cake walk. Less than a few feet from the trail head the trail went up. Like over 200 feet in less than a half mile. Once we got to the top we were greeted with spectacular views of forest and Lake Superior.
Yea thats a cargo ship you see near the horizon.
The temperatures were mid seventies and the rain had passed us by. It was a great day for hiking. I guess the only bad part was all the rain over the last few days left the trail pretty soupy in spots. We had plenty of mud on our boots by the end of the day.
About 5:00 we started seeing the camp sites we could choose from. There were 4 in total. We passed the first 2 because we we doing well and did not want to stop. We got to the third and we almost stopped. I say almost because I knew there was one more campsite ahead and any miles we could put on today would be less tomorrow. And the campsite we just left was a nice one. I was having feelings of Arizona all over again. Should we have stayed here? will the next site be nice? will there be a next site or did I read the map wrong? In about 15 minutes we did find the last site of the Gooseberry Falls set of sites. It was a group site, so we had a table. It wasn't as nice as the last site. but we had river access only about 100 feet from camp and it was off the trail. Crisis averted.
We unpacked and set up camp. I went and pulled water from the river and we had dinner. Mike with some instant lasagna and I had some instant chili. We both ate well. I tried to start a fire, but there was not much wood in the area and what was there was really damp from the rain of the past 2 days. Neither of us cared at that point. We were both in bed before it was completely dark.
The next morning we got up and had breakfast. I brought a deli bagel, cream cheese packets and fresh smoked salmon with my coffee. Who says you have to rough it?
I even tried to toast the bagel a bit over the flame of the stove but it didn't work too well. We packed up slowly and took our time to leave. Although we did not feed them, the chipmunks did not want us to leave.
Today we would hike up the river a bit, cross a bridge and then hike down the other side of the Gooseberry River. At the first bridge we saw what would be the first of many waterfalls. Like little kids we scrambled around taking pictures and enjoying the scenery. This is how the rest of the day would go. Hike a bit another cool water fall, they were just non stop. After a while I just enjoyed them in my mind. No need to photograph ever one. Mike however, is a waterfall junkie I come to find out. He is taking pictures of everyone we come to. I give him credit for his tenacity.
The trail we are on had a detour at this point which kind of took us deeper into Gooseberry State Park. For a Monday there sure were a lot of people here. We decided to use the visitor center as a place to eat lunch, use a civilized restroom and use a drinking fountain/bubbler depending on who you talk to. Mike bought himself a coke and and ice cream sandwich. Nice little break from camp food. I had some hard salami and string cheese (I had brought with me).
From here we had to use a paved bike trail for about a mile and a half. The a dirt road for another mile and a half after that.
Back on the trail we continued. A bit drier today not as muddy, Still very sunny and the bugs are remarkably absent. Along the way we nosh on wild raspberries and thimble berries where they have not been eaten by everyone else. We finally start working our way up the Split Rock river and one of the 4 campsites available. Looks like one is occupied by some kids so we take the first one we come upon. 12 miles is good for the day.
We are on on one side of the trail and the river is on the other. Such a nice spot. We unpack set up camp and head right to the river. Cool rushing water makes for a perfect place to clean up and get refreshed.
We hang up the 'washed' clothes and settle in for some dinner. Mike's got spaghetti and I have the hamburger wraps. It starts to get cloudy so I pull a weather report from my little satellite locator thingy. Since we have zero cell service. It says 50% chance of rain tonight. Hmm Mike and I both put the rain flys on our set ups. No sleeping under the stars tonight. It makes it a bit warmer and since we don't feel like having a fire we both retire early. Because our packs were much lighter than Arizona, I brought my kindle and Mike his Ipad. Just like home I read to fall asleep. Except the roaring river sounds in the background is delightful to sleep to.
I wake up around 7:30. No rain and one of the best sleeps I have had outside. Normally my outside sleep is one of a few hours here, flip around fall back asleep, repeat until morning. Must have been the waterfall noise that helped drown out all other sounds.
The sky is hazy and so we dawdle around camp for a while hoping our stuff will dry out. After a while we realize it could take a while. We eat and pack up. Another 10 mile day today.
Today is very similar to the previous. Hike up the side of the river then cross a bridge to the other side and then down the river as it empties into Lake Superior. We eventually catch up with spur trails that go down into Split Rock State Park, Just like Gooseberry State Park, except this time there is no need to detour. However, Mike really wants to get these iconic pictures of this light house. Honestly I had no idea this was such a highly photographed spot until he showed me before we set out. This detour adds about 3 miles to the day and I was thinking.... nah. I could get into camp early relax a bit. So we part ways, I give him a map and we agree to leave markers as I go past certain points.
Today is hotter and a bit muggier than the last two days. It's noticeable. I stop for lunch at one of 3 campgrounds we could choose for the evening. Breezy, shady. I eat lunch and linger way longer than I intended to.... like an hour and a half.
I was fresh out of water but there was a creek a half mile from this site. I reluctantly packed up, left Mike a mark that I had been here and headed out. 10 minutes later I was taking my pack off and filtering water from a very low Chapins creek. Refilled and refreshed I headed on. Crossing paths with a few other hikers.
This trail is much more populated than the Arizona trail that is for sure. In Arizona we met 4 people and 1 was on horseback. We met 9 people on day one (not including the visitor center) 6 on day two and another 3 today.
At the next site I passed up, leaving a mark for Mike again. About 30 minutes later was the last reachable campsite for the day. The entry was completely overgrown, I hope no one is here so don't have to back track. Nope empty. The time is about 3:10, quickest and earliest day and not bad for 10 miles. I unpack and change out of my sweaty clothes and hang them up. Did I mention it was much hotter today?
I go to the beaver pond, yep, no nice running rivers today, and fill up a bag to filter. Set up my hammock and set to relaxing. Around 5 I have dinner of chicken and dumplings. I realize that I need to mark the entry to the site. I grab some orange cord and a hiking pole and go stick it in the trail. Marking this is it.
About 45 minutes later Mike comes in, looking beat. His shorts are wet front and back from the sweat. His shirt is dark with sweat. He made it. An extra 3 and a half miles and some extra elevation as well. He has good stories and good pictures to go for the effort. Went swimming in the lake was clean for a while, had cold water from the lake too, but you couldn't tell looking at him now.
He changed made some dinner. I made some dessert (Did I mention I brought way too much food). I got a fire going. A real one. There was plenty of fire wood around to maintain a fire for a few hours.
Mike dried his shorts. And we heard a beaver slap the water with his tail. It was a good day.
The next morning was the last day. About a 9 mile jaunt through Beaver Bay and into Silver Bay. This was possibly one of the most strenuous of the days. Highest elevation of the trip. Most of this was up and down. Climb 100 ft drop 75, climb 150 feet drop 125.
We crossed the Beaver River and stopped at a campsite for lunch. Man if we could have gone another 3 miles yesterday we could have stayed here campsites right on the river with what else? Waterfalls.
Instead we ate, saw a school group of about 20 kids hike by and filled up our last need for water.
Out of the river valley we climbed again, under a rail road, past some mining companies and then higher up to the ridges. At one point I thought I was close and took a quick movie - 'almost done I think the road we want is over there' Only to realize how far off I was. I was on the wrong ridge, I had one more to go!
Finally we reached the car took off the packs, cracked a warm beer from the cooler and celebrated. We did it. About 37 miles total.
We were not done yet. We load up in the car, and drive to Split Rock Park. Yep Mike talked it up so much how could I resist. Paid my $5 to get in the park and off we went.
We grab some clothes and and towel and head to the water. I thought I would just wade in and freshen up. Nope. The water was cold but man did it feel great. Before you know it we are swimming and I am completely refreshed. We walk dry off a bit walk to the restrooms and change into dry clothes. We take a few more pictures of the lighthouse. I admit, it's pretty freaking cool.
here is a pic of swimming AND the lighthouse!
Its around 2 in the afternoon when we left and we try to find a pizza place in Two Harbors. Its doesn't open until 4:30. Don't have time for that so we go back to Blackwoods for a burger instead. Again they knocked it out of the park.
We finally hit the road a bit after 3:00 with about 7+ hours of drive ahead of us. Mike put up with my singing for at least 3 hours of that time. Sorry.
We finally get home a little after 11. A long day. The next day I take Mike to the airport and he headed back home. We already talked about where we would go next. Can't wait.
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