50 on the 50

This has been a long time coming. Everyone close to me knows what I did and how it went.  On my 50th birthday this year I took the day off work and did 50 kilometer trail run/hike.

Why? Well I think I have struggled with turning 50 more than any other birthday milestone. I also feel like I have been the most active I have ever been in the last 20 years. I had to back off the weights but picked up the running. What better way to prove to myself that I can still do things and that this is just a number?

I left the house at 6 AM to get to the Highway P trail head in Glenbeulah. The northern terminus of the Kettle Moraine Forest and part of Ice Age trail. I have done this trail multiple times, but never the whole thing in one day. The official mileage is 31.6 miles to highway H in Kewaskum or just over 50K.

I parked the car, made a little coffee, like it was some morning routine and once the sun started coming up I started off.  7:00.  The day was overcast and the temperature was around 50.

I had my small day bag, its actually a Salomon running pack with a 2 liter bladder, some snacks and an extra water bottle to fill up as needed. I took my hiking poles, although I had to use a different technique when running with them.

The day went by pretty quickly, the first 3 hours were a combination of running and fast walking. I had some really good times for trail running - 12 and 13 minute miles.  I was feeling pretty good.

I hit the Greenbush campsites. Topped of with water and kept going.

Then I approached an area that had a lot of storm damage. This I was not aware of.  There was a barricade that pointed in the direction I should go, so I followed it.  As I got down the trail, I realized how bad the damage was. Hundreds of trees down and crews from the DNR and Ice Age Alliance working to clear them.  I talked to the DNR people and they said they meant for this to be blocked off. They moved the barricade to let the 4 wheeler in but didn't put it back. I had gone the wrong way.

Not to be too angry I kept going trying to get through, then tried to cut over to the detour. I was taking way too long to climb over around and under all the dead-fall. I ended up doubling back to the actual detour. Some old guys clearing the trail made fun of me wearing shorts. I laughed at them as they had no idea what I was actually doing.

I eventually got to the barricade and moved it back. I doubt anyone else would be though here but at least they wont do what I did.

Around 1 PM the rain started to fall. I put the rain jacket on and kept trucking. Although now running would be limited. The wet made the roots, rocks and all the fallen leaves that much more slippery.

The rain would continue the rest of the day. It came down hard too. I stopped at the Mauthe Lake entrance station for more water and to watch the rain.

Needless to say the trails were streams and I was soaked from my waist down. The jacket kept me warm and dry up top so that did not affect me as much.

I still kept a good pace at almost 4 miles per hour.

Eventually I hit 26 miles. The marathon end. Also, the spot I stopped the last time I did this trail in one day (overnight). I really only had about 7 miles to go.

I was starting to feel it, the wetness starting to get to me. Only 2 more hours. At this point because of the delays I had encountered, I was worried about getting dark.

Eventually I crossed Highway 28.  The last road before I finish. I was giddy. I let Tracy know to come get me at the end.

I reached the finish a little over 10 hour after I started. 33.47 miles or over 54 Kilometers!

What a birthday present.

See the  Garmin Connect for the details

Or watch this video or a deranged lunatic.

I am beginning to think someone has it in for me when I try to do some epic hikes, especially when in Arizona. It won’t stop me from trying though. 

VIDEO
PHOTOS
New Album

As I get closer to the big 5-0 I wanted to do a more rugged multi day trip. After researching I decided to backpack in the Chiricahua Mountains of South Eastern Arizona. Rugged, yep. Remote, check. Challenging? Absolutely.Another reason for this was to spend some extra time with Mackenzie as my base of operations would be Tucson. Win-Win right?

In the week leading up to my trip I start watching the weather. Lots of tropical storms coming out of the Pacific and going across Mexico touching off all kinds of flooding in the Southwest US. A few days before leaving I see that there is rain forecast for the area I will be in, Saturday and Sunday for sure. It’s hard to get accurate forecasts because where I am headed there are few weather stations. But it also looks like it will be cold and very windy.

This just means I have to add to my pack. Rain gear, bigger tarp with doors, warmer sleeping bag and additional warm clothes. Normally it would be in the 60’s I was going to be 40’s or lower. Not really happy about it but I can’t change my travel plans this late in the game.

This originally was going to be a solo trip, just me. Tracy talked me into having her tag along (not on trail) just to spend more time with Kiki and hell, to be out of Wisconsin again.

We had a very early flight on Thursday morning and we were in Tucson before 10 AM. Did some pre-hike errands and picked Kiki up after her class and went to lunch!

We hung out and Mackenzie stayed with us as she had no class on Friday.

On Friday morning I left around 8 AM and had an hour and forty-five-minute drive to get to the trail head. I was also planning on stopping at Johnny Ringo’s gravesite. If you’re not familiar with this particular ‘Cowboy’, the 1993 movie Tombstone brought his character from somewhat obscurity to infamy. His grave is on private property and the landowner is gracious enough to allow the public to come to the site. I thought it would be fun as it was on the same road as where the trail was. 

When I pull up I see a cowboy. No, not just any cowboy, Johnny Ringo himself. I approach (cautiously, he’s going heeled). He asks me if I’m here for the vendetta ride. I politely tell him no. I have serendipitously came to the site on the one day of the year they are doing an event. This gentleman plays Johnny Ringo, in the city of Tombstone and other places. He shows me the site like a personal tour guide from beyond. We share a few movie lines and I am giddy like a kid on Christmas. After a few pictures handshakes and hat tips, I head down the road.

This road, by the way, is dirt, 10 miles of dirt. In a rented Chrysler 300s. Flashbacks to other trips.

This is national forest or BLM land and is rugged as such, I drive for some time and never find a sign. I turn around find a sign but no place to park. I find a place to park but it’s not that close to the trail. I have no idea if I can even park here. I get all my stuff ready put a note on the dash and walk to the trail. I have not seen a person since Johnny.

Its 11 AM by the time I get to the actual trail. Mormon Ridge trail. It’s going to be slow, I have over 3000 feet of elevation to gain. I think I am mentally prepared for it. I think I am physically prepared for it. The temperatures are mid 50’s and the sun is shining. So far so good.

There are some ‘hitches’ to this whole trip. One is water. I can only carry so much and there may or there may not be water in the springs I have mapped. People have said last year’s snows were light and snow is really what feed springs. Because of this uncertainty, I only allow myself to drink half my water for the trip up. This way if I cannot locate water I have exactly half to get down. This makes it tough as the climb is hard and I know I am expending much more energy than I would coming down.

The elevation going from 6200 feet to 9700 feet for a Midwesterner also plays into the effort. I am just not used to the elevation.  

I know I may have mentioned that this is very rugged area. The trails are not well maintained. I don’t even mean in the way that a crew comes and keeps them from fallen trees and overgrowth. These trails see very little traffic at all. At times I find myself having to really look for them, it’s just not obvious.

The day goes by slow I am averaging under 2 miles an hour. But as I climb out of the valley the views get better and better. All of the sudden a thunderous roar can be heard and almost instantly 2 military jets (F16’s I think) come screaming over the peak and down the canyon. It’s so loud its almost scary. I tried to get a video of them but I was in some trees and the second time they came around I was too late.

It energizes me for a while. The adrenaline surge only lasts a little while and I am back to a few hundred feet, take a break. Repeat.

About 2 pm I reach my first trail crossing. It’s not so much a crossing as a wore our sign and a trail that goes in a different direction. I have GPS AND Map and am glad for it. What I thought was a trail on GPS was a no go in real life and the map showed me my other options. Thankfully I had options. Basically, a long switch back that finally got me to the main trail at the ridge-line. The Crest Trail. This is the best trail as it connects all the others at the top. It’s the main artery to all the side and feeder trails. 

The plan this week was to camp near this trail and day hike to all the other peaks in the area topping out at 9800 feet.

Feeling relived that the terrain will flatten out for me as I am near the top I focus on water. I start looking for a side trail for the water. Again, the trails as so faint and the signs are worn, fallen down, pointing ambiguously or some combination of those traits.

I eventually find the Anita Park spring trail and start looking for said spring. It’s a steep descent, so I shed my pack and decide to look for water without it, no sense in dragging that around if there is nothing. Again, there are no markers, just wilderness and downed trees. I point myself in the right direction and listen. Shhhhhhhh….I hear a trickle. Just like meeting Johnny and seeing jets, my adrenaline spikes. I work my way to it and see a small lovely brick lined pool. It holds the water, fills up and trickles over. I am so excited. I know I will be ok with water and my trip can continue.

I hike back to my pack. Drink all the water I had. Then grab my empties and my additional bladder and fill up on cold clear mountain spring water. Water is life. I felt alive.

I donned my pack now with over eight extra pounds of water. 134 ounces to be exact. No one is going to be thirsty tonight. Plus, I would need it for breakfast and coffee! No need to take less and have to make more trips for water. A small penalty to pay.

Now I had about 90 minutes to find a camp site before sun started setting. This is another ‘hitch’ I am on a mountain. Flat sites for tents are rare and so I have my hammock. No flat ground needed. Except the mountain has had had two separate forest fires in the last 10-12 years. A lot of the large trees are gone. Even of more concern is the dead ones still standing. I hiked until I found a perfect spot. Flat and nice trees with very little dead still standing to be concerned with. So far, the weather has been great, I am very optimistic, however I know the forecast for rain and wind is supposed to hit at around 3 AM.

This site had obviously been used by others as well, a rock fire ring was there and a log for seating as well.

As I set my hammock up the wind started picking up. I did my best to really batten down the tarp the doors and fortified the stakes by putting rocks over them so not to pull out in high wind. I finished unpacking, changed into some comfortable clothes and ate the other half of a smashed subway sub I brought for lunch. I did not bother with any other food and like every time I backpack, I know I have brought way too much food.

I hang my food bag. Yes, there are bears and mountain lions so I prefer to keep my food as mine.

All of the sudden I realize the sunset in incredible. I can see for miles and the world just drops below me. The moon is up and all is good with me.

The sun finally sets, and darkness settles in. It’s too windy to have fire and I don’t want to be the cause of another forest fire on the mountain. Around 6:30 I settle into my hammock and pull out my Kindle. Another hiking luxury, but it is so nice to just relax, read and eventually drift off to sleep.

It doesn’t last long. Two hours later the wind really picks up. You can hear it just roaring up the side of the mountain, then the sound stops then it hits my campsite. At times I think I will certainly have the tarp ripped away, it’s that bad.

I fall in and out of sleep and around 10 I need to pee. I slip my shoes on and step to the doors of my tarp. They are soaking wet. But it’s not raining? I mean it’s wet on the inside and the outside. As I step through the door I turn my headlamp on. Clouds. The clouds have settled on top of the mountain and are staying put. I can see the finest of mist in the headlamp beam as if it were a steam room. It permeates everything and there is nothing I can do. I am thinking to myself with the wind so strong these clouds will get moved out by morning. Wishful thinking indeed. I climb back to bed. The mist is held at bay by my tarp and the netting on my hammock, so I stay mostly dry. It’s a night of sleeping, waking to wind and eventually rain.

Only once during the night did I have to fix a door that had been pulled free of its stake from the wind. The flapping was like a tattered flag. I quickly got up to fix it. I was rather pleased with myself as the rest of my set up held the rest of the night.

Around 4 AM, I begin hoping the sun will be up in 2 hours the clouds will burn off and I can dry out eat some breakfast and spend the day as planned. Again, I know, based I a forecast I pulled with my satellite communicator, this weather is here to stay.

The time for sunrise happens but I can’t tell for certain. I remain warm and snug but realize I can’t stay here forever. My hammock is so wet with mist it is running from the netting and starting to soak into the main body where I lie. I can feel it. At this point I could stay but it would be ‘less than optimal’ and with not much to do but lay in bed, possibly get wetter and really set myself up for some bad times. In my head I know what has to be done, but my heart is not happy about it. Many months of planning and cutting my trip short by two thirds. I mean I worked my ass off to get up here. I was not going to get to enjoy it.

I stripped out of my sleeping clothes, put on my rain paints and rain jacket and went and grabbed my food bag. I wasn’t even going to have coffee. The wind and rain were just to going to allow any of it. I had a protein shake (420 calories in an 8 oz drink!) to get me started and I proceeded to breakdown camp.

Breaking down in the rain sucks, breaking down when everything is wet and the wind is a constant 20 miles per hour is a whole ‘nother level of suck. Leaving my tarp for last to give me as much shelter as possible, I cram it into the stuff sack, then squeeze it. So much water comes out, all I can do is laugh.

I drink a lot more water, refill my bottles from the bladder of spring water. Sadly, I dump 2 liters of it out as I won’t need it.

I hoist my pack on my back. It is the heaviest it’s been. The water-soaked tarps and such just add to the misery.

Determined to make the trip a little more than an out and back, I decide to go down a different way than I came up.  The trail would pop me out almost the same place I came in so, hey let’s see some different stuff.

I begin my walk around 8 AM and its comical. The wind is so strong, the mist so thick. It takes all the help my hiking poles can give to stay up right at times.

I take the Crest Trail North until it meets Round Park and splits for Saulsbury Canyon (my trail) or heads up to Fly Peak. Fly peak, one of the 6 or so peaks I was supposed to get this weekend. Sigh.

Saulsbury trail is not marked, it is faint (game trails are more worn) and it has not been maintained in years. I decide to start counting the trees in the trail that I have to circumvent, crawl under or climb over.

Despite the howling winds and rain, I make pretty good time. Until I lose the trail. All the trees down made me estimate where the trail was, in a general direction. I lost the trail at least 4 times and had to bushwhack over what might have been a trail or might just have been mountainside. I slip. I slide. I twist and turn. Look at the map get a general bearing and keep walking. All of the sudden there is trail again. I look behind, nothing. As if it was just laid in front of me.

It’s frustrating at worse, comical at best. Crossing talus slopes where no trail would stay long anyway due to the nature of the rock itself, I continue and point myself in what I deem to me the right direction and sometimes realize the trail is now above or below me. How the hell?  I know I am not the only person when I find a fleece jacket snagged on some overgrowth. Someone else with the fleece tied to or loosely tucked in a pack took the same ‘trail’ I did and left me a marker.

I eventually get out of the clouds. Some blue sky in the distance but the mist and wind still tendril down the mountain as if trying to bring me back.

At this same time, I lose the trail for the last time. Some thoughtful hikers put some cairns up but as I follow they abruptly stop. At this point it no longer mattered. The map had the trail going up and around. I was pointed to the trail just on a more direct route. Like a jaywalker I cut across, making my own way. I spook 2 deer who just bound away, never even letting me ask for directions. Deer can be such jerks.

On my way down, the sun is out in full. Of course it is.  At this time, I half thought to just stop and camp for the day and salvage some of the trip. Again, I was wary. I knew the weather was still looming. Showers, thunderstorms more wind.

I find what I call a little drainage cut and follow it down to meet the trail at the end of my jaywalk. Like climbing down a large rock ladder. A few seeps of water made it slippery. Difficult is a good word. I am testing every footfall so as not twist or sprain or fall. It is a beautiful place but I don’t want to have to be extracted. I reach the bottom and there it is. Nestled in some pines and a carpet of needles, the trail! My little gamble paid off.

From here on out the trail follows a small canyon. Its quiet and a small stream appears. The trail crosses it several times. I come across a huge tree. I decide to have fun and climb over this one. My tree count I started was now in to the 80’s.  I continue to follow the trail into a forest that eventually turns into a field and then a vehicle path, a dirt parking lot. I am off the mountain.  I cross Turkey Creek one last time and see the car.  I end my walk at 103.

At the car I get out of my rain pants. They are shredded. All the little slips, sharp rocks and overgrowth have taken a toll on the nylon shell. I also have a nice scrape on my right butt cheek, a huge bruise on my shin and cuts and scrapes on my hands too numerous to catalog. A fun little motto of mine applies ‘No good time comes cheap’. Be it monetary or physical it almost always seems to play out that way. 

I change into a T and shorts for the drive home. As I stand half naked a car pulling a pop-up camper comes up the primitive road. They ask me for directions to the campsite. I tell them it’s further up the road (it is). It’s the first people I have seen in 36 hours. I probably wouldn’t have seen anyone if I had stayed on the mountain.

I drive back to Tucson. I look back at the mountains. The clouds still sit atop the peaks of the range. Nope, I made the right call.

It rains or storms every day we are there. It’s very strange weather for the area, everyone is telling us the same. It’s quite possibly due to the category 4 hurricane Willa that had just come off the Pacific and over Mexico. It just could be my luck.

This has become a travel blog

It hasn't been a day to day blog for some time so lets call a spade a spade.

With that out of the way I bring you the next post in the adventure travel blog

It had been a while since Jim and I had got together for some overnight camping shenanigans. 3 years since we last did our last kayak trip. I told Jim to tell me a weekend in September and we are on. We had off for his birthday and so we settled on that weekend.

Two weeks before that date rolled around, Taylor gets a job in San Francisco, Jim has to help her move in the weekend of our trip. He says not to worry, if I can do the next week, he can make that happen. Its a deal.

Jim helps Taylor in SF the weather here is 80's all weekend. 

The next weekend we get in the car and start the near 6 hour drive to Hayward. It rains a lot on the way up. The temps drop to the 40's. 

We get to the landing in Hayward before noon and unpack. Fresh food, firewood warm clothes. We are ready for anything. I drive to the Log Cabin resort when I leave the car and they shuttle me back to Jim.

Its cold, raining on and off. Perfect.

We are doing the same 30 miles section that Joel and I did in 2016.Read about that here. It just works real well with the shuttle run ending right were the car is.

We paddle a few hours and oddly we stop at the same site Joel and I did. By this time at least the sun has come out and makes setting up a little more enjoyable.  

Time for dinner we cooked Italian Sausages over the fire with some shoestring potatoes and a little triple berry crisp for desert. I know Jim has an old fashioned weakness so I brought up some booze, cherries an orange, bitters and some soda. I whittled a muddler and boom muddled drinks in the middle of national parkland. 

We turn the cooking fire into a campfire, enjoy some cocktails and play some cribbage.

The next morning its a bit chilly and breezy, but again the sun is out. We make a breakfast of bacon, eggs and salsa and brewed coffee. No instant crap here.

Kayak camping can be a little more luxurious as compared to backpacking. Since the water is doing all the carrying you are only limited to the capacity of the boats. We were reaching max capacity. Loaded up with fire wood for two nights, a small soft cooler with all kinds of fresh food. Extra beverages. When we first pushed of Friday afternoon there was very little waterline left on the boats, thank goodness all the rain the week before made the water levels a bit higher so there was no scraping to be had. 

We lollygag and don't get on the water until 10 AM on Saturday. The wind picked up a bit but other than that a great day.  This section has a lot of riffles and small class I rapids including a nice drop and chute that is guaranteed to get you a little wet.

We made a little stop for some apples and snacks and to dry our seats (from that aforementioned chute). So far we have seen only 2 others on the river in over 24 hours. It does feel like we have the place to ourselves.

We paddle a few more hours and pull up to the next on the river campsite. The sun is out, the wind died down and we set up camp. I took a nap until it was time to make dinner.

Tonight we had a half a chicken and baked potatoes (Also more cocktails). with a full belly we stoked the fire, played some more cribbage as we watched a near full moon come over the tree line.

The next morning we stay in bed a little longer as the fog burns off the river. Another breakfast of eggs, pancakes, bacon and coffee.

The sun burns through the fog and light frost and we get on the river around 10 again. I mean why hurry we only have to drive home and the longer we can postpone that, the better.

The water is slower today as it starts heading into Trego where there is a dam, so we goof around a bit going around small islands and under trees hanging over the river. 

Jim tells me to split a overhang, I do it. He follows, almost. He goes a little off the side and tries to stop by grabbing the tree. Not a good move, it tips his boat and he takes on quite a bit of water.  Its all good, hes wet, bails the boat and we continue on.

Eventually we come into more of the city and pass under a few bridges and finally the beach where the day will end.

We pack up, clean up get a choco-taco from the resort and start the long drive home.  

Until next time....

PHOTOS HERE   

VIDEO HERE

It’s been a while since I have written anything. All of my recent writings are about some new adventure I did and this will be no different. At least I am consistent with the content and this has morphed into a travel/life event platform for me. I see so many people posting daily drivel on Facebook, does anyone really care that much what you are doing at every moment? Short posts for short attention spans. Reading this is a commitment. It might take you ten minutes. Ten minutes you will never get back, but don’t say you weren’t warned.

A month and a half ago I realized I was going to be up in Minnesota for work and thought, hey I should really try to stretch a long weekend out of it and do a little hiking trip on the North Shore. I booked the flights the rental cars and started planning the route. Thursday into Sunday gave me over 3 full days to play with and time to extend myself.

With a milestone birthday looming that has been affecting my psyche more than any other, the route is about 47 miles. Not quite 50 but to take it another trailhead or double back jut to get that number seems a bit contrived. I know that there are side trails, looks outs and trails to campsites that should get me to that milestone number without too much effort.

The weeks leading up to this I begin to have doubts. Not sure why, I’m in pretty good shape, running a few times a week, but my neck has been flaring up more than I cared to admit.

A new work trip pops up, this one to Seattle, the week before this Minnesota trip. That means I will be gone From Wednesday to Friday, come home for the weekend and head back out Monday and not be back home until Sunday night (Monday morning). It’s not ideal because I am sure something will get missed now packing between trips but I make a few extra lists. I love lists.

Seattle in the summertime is a very nice place. I could and should do a separate write up on this trip alone. Maybe.

Anyway, the next Monday I complete packing my work bag and my backpack into checked luggage and off to Minnesota I go.

Work goes quickly and at night I meet with co workers for eats and drinks. I also have a few errands to run. Things like Target for a few food items, REI for a gas cannister (can’t take them on a plane), and then I realize I have no post trail shoes. My trail runners and my dress shoes, that’s all I have. The last two times I did this trail, I (we) got wet and muddy. I couldn’t wear wet muddy shoes through the airport or want to drive home in them. I have been on the search for a pair of camp shoes since I started doing this. Too heavy, no support, no foot protection, don’t stay on well. I had gone back and forth on a pair of Crocs for the task for a long time, but they are heavy and well, they are Crocs. I realize it’s time to re-look at them. The Mall of America has a Croc store, they have a new lighter version (25% lighter!) and they don’t look like Lego Dutch boy. All plusses. I bite and take a pair home. I must be getting old, I just gave in to Crocs. What’s next? Socks and Sandals? 4:30 early bird dinners? Winters in Florida? I shudder at the thought.

The next morning, I swap rental cars and start the 4-hour drive from Minneapolis to Schroeder Minnesota. It’s a boring, uneventful drive to Duluth and once through Duluth do you start to get some nice scenery. Highway 61 hugs the lakeshore all the way to Canada.

However, once you hit Two Harbors, you know you are getting close. I started passing all the spots I had hiked in the past. The state parks, the rivers, Split Rock Lighthouse. I pass the road where I will get dropped off to start the trip. Its also the place I stopped last time I was up here. Doing it this way I will have done a continuous section of the trail, with no repeating.

Over 20 minutes go by and I still have a way to go to get to my trailhead at Britton Peak. I really wonder if I over estimated my abilities, a modicum of doubt creeps in.

I finally pull into the parking lot. It’s a very nice trailhead, as it is shared with hikers and the mountain bike trails that start here. I am quite a bit early for my pick up and that’s ok, I have time to shakedown my gear and makes sure I don’t forget anything.

So far, the weather has been decent, although they are calling for a 50 percent chance of rain and thunderstorms tonight and for the next few days. It’s sunny now but will it last?

Finally, the shuttle service I contracted with shows up and I load up. Larry and I shoot the breeze for the ride and he’s impressed (or concerned?) with my ambitious mileage goals for the next three and a half days.  It doesn’t do much for my confidence either way.

Like a hitchhiker at his stop, Larry leaves me at the wayside of my choice. I flop the pack on the ground take a few pictures take a few deep breaths and start the walk. My pack is loaded, but not overly so. With food, water and camera gear it’s around 26 pounds. I have learned since taking 40 pounds into the mountains of Arizona. With old age comes experience and wisdom I guess.

Of course, the trail goes straight up from the drop point to Section 13, a popular destination with rock and free climbers.  There is also a ‘nuisance’ bear at the campsite for this area. Maybe I will see a bear? Neat. I walk the next few miles, go through a boardwalk in a bog, see a 15-foot-tall glacial erratic and the weather stays good, low 70’s mostly sunny. Beats work anytime.

Now this first day is about 10 miles as I didn’t want to get to camp too late since I didn’t get started until 2:00 PM anyway. Other than a few climbs it’s not to strenuous, and my body seems ok with a pack. It had been 5 months since I did this last.

The campsite is North Egge Lake. I have the place to myself. Obviously, being on a lake the water is easy to access and it makes for a peaceful spot.

I set up camp and set about a few chores, have my food bag to hang, make dinner, get water. I walk to the edge of the lake and there is a pair of swans right in the middle of it! Very peaceful, I think I am the only person on the lake today.

I take my water bag back to start filtering. Except the filter is not working. I should be able to squeeze water through and I am getting nothing. Are you kidding me? This is how my trip starts and ends? I mean I can boil water, but there is not enough gas for my stove to last, I could do it over a fire but my pot only holds 22 ounces a time anyway, I will be here all day. I then remember I do have backup purification tablets if I need to, but I don’t want to go there just yet. I keep trying, and finally I start getting a slow drip. I hang the water bag and the catchment bag on a tree and let it drip. Not the best but it’s something.

Back to dinner, the old favorite, Pack-it Gourmet All American Hamburger. Only takes 4 ounces of water, perfect for my low water situation. It’s also just tasty. Like taco meat that tastes like grilled hamburger and all the fixins’ on a tortilla. Simple and satisfying. I also had a snickers bar for dessert. The new espresso flavor. Not too bad. 

By this time I have drip filtered about 1 liter of water. Still not great, but I drink it up because I am thirsty. This time I have ditched the bladder and went with two bottles of water. I have about 16 ounces less water at any time but also less weight and bulk. Also, this area trail is littered with good water sources. Just stop and filter…if your filter works like it should.

I keep the filter to keep going and I get ready for bed. Its almost 9 and its getting cloudy, perhaps some of those overnight showers they predicted will come though soon.

By the way, I did get my shoes quite wet and muddy in one spot today, otherwise the trail is in really good condition. That said, my Crocs are wonderful, let me feet air out provide the cushion and protection around camp, I am officially converted.

With the food bag hung as high as ever and 2 liters of water filtered, I go to bed.

The next thing I know its 5:30 am. I lay in ‘bed’ until almost 6:30 because I have all day. I am on vacation anyway. When I do roll out, I am not sore anywhere, my neck is fine. Maybe I should sleep in a hammock at home?

I make coffee (instant), oatmeal (cooked) and peach protein smoothie (instant) for breakfast. It never rained last night and everything is dry. It’s still very overcast but so far so good.

Eventually I break camp and hit the trail before 9. Today is the longest day I have planned for the whole week. Over 16 miles to the East Caribou River Campsite. There are multiple bail out sites along the way if I am not feeling it, but that then makes the remainder of my days that much longer.

Today also has about 2500 feet of elevation gain along with 3200 feet of elevation loss. As long as I take a break when I feel the need I should be fine.

So far the weather has been good to me, but eventually it does start to sprinkle. I take a break, put some foot glide on and put my pack cover on to prep for the rain. Foot glide is just a fancy name for a lanolin-based lotion that helps keep the friction down on your feet (or other chafe-y bits) since my feet would be a bit wet with the rain I though it best to do it now.

The rain was short lived.

Today being Friday I did run into a few other hikers but honestly, I expected more.

Eventually I made it into George Crosby State park. I do a little extra detour to find a nice picnic area on a lake. I eat lunch, air my feet and shoes out and filter water. By this time the filter is starting to work better, I can actually start to squeeze water out of it and its more than a drip. This is a relief for sure. Not having adequate (clean) water can be stressful.

I pack up and head back to the trail. I have about 10 miles in with about 7 to go. The rain has stopped but its still and muggy. Because of this I drink a lot of water, and I am almost out by the time I get to the next source, but it’s not a great source and I end up skipping it.

Finally, I reach East Caribou campsite. A large YMCA youth group has it taken over. Luckily for me you are required to share and it’s a multi group site. This means I have a secondary site with fire ring and benches all to myself. I set up camp, change into my camp clothes (clean and dry) as well as my Crocs. I go to the river and drink it dry. Almost. Ok not even close but damn that was so good.

Working on dinner another group of four guys come in and we share the secondary site for the night. They are all around 26-28 years old and sociable. They offer me some of the brats and food they cook over the fire. They also have two dogs with them Ted and Bella. I stay up way too late hanging out with them by the fire….

They next morning it’s more of the same, lay in bed, eat, break camp and head out by around 9:00 AM. Again, no rush and the miles will be less today, less than the previous day anyway.

As I head out the YMCA group is half awake. Man, I wish I could sleep that late once in a while.

The day is overcast again, not sure if it will rain I decide to leave the pack cover off. This next section has several campsites along the way in which I can take a break, water up, have lunch or if worse comes to worse stop for the day.

As expected, the trail starts straight up, that’s the problem when you camp on these river spots. I eventually enter some heavy overgrowth on the trail, ferns and other plants all decide to give me their morning dew as I brush past. After a mile of this my pants are soaked, mid-thigh down, by shoes are soaked as well. At least the sun starts to peak out.

Eventually I decide to stop at Dyers Creek camp. I drop my pack, convert my pants to shorts, take off my shoes and socks, take off my shirt all to dry in the sun while I enjoy some snacks. I sun myself for about 20 minutes before a couple come in with the same idea, to stop for lunch. I gather up some of my gear as I am spread out all over the benches at this camp. They get to marvel in my pasty-white-farmer-tan having upper body, because I am not getting dressed until I am ready.

About 15 minutes later and after some conversation with them I finally head back out. Refreshed, dried out and ready for the next camp. They tell me Falls Camp is really nice, that’s where they were the night before. I take it under consideration although it is almost two miles short of my planned camp.

The sun is out in full now and it warms up. The trails has a few open spots as I do a sort of ridge walk and I pause to take in any breezes I can get.

Eventually the trail parallels the Cross River. I get to Falls Camp, hike up the hill. Take my pack off and scout around. Yeah, it’s ok but its only 3:30 in the afternoon and I could make tomorrow just that much shorter if I keep going. That’s it. I re-shoulder my pack and head back to the trail.

It’s almost 2 more miles until I get to the South Cross River camp, and there is a group of three already set up. No worries I ask if I could join them off to the side and set up camp.

Once that was done, I went to get water from the river and realized there was another camp right there on the river! I didn’t have to share anything and didn’t have to impose on the other hikers. What should I do? tear it all down and move? It turns out that I am extremely lazy at this point and say screw it. I will stay right where I am.

Made dinner of pasta Bolognese and another snicker bar. This time a hazelnut one. It’s ok, I would stick with normal or the espresso ones given a choice.

We are in a little canyon so the sun isn’t long in the campsite. I lounge in my hammock and pull out my Kindle. Yes, I have dragged this thing for 40 plus miles for 3 days now and this is the first time I even cracked it open. I read for an hour, then decide to move from sitting to laying down. I read for a little more as another hiker comes into the site and sets up. She talks with the others and doesn’t say anything to me. I don’t care I didn’t make myself too available anyway eating and reading in the hammock. As when at home the Kindle emits some form of sleeping gas and I fall asleep.

Sunday morning. I get up make coffee, eat, break camp and get ready to go to church. My church. The one with the trees and rivers and sunny skies. Every one but one person is still sleeping by the time I leave.

Today is the shortest mileage day of the trip at around 8 miles. I still like to start early as I have to get back to the airport which is as you know, is a 4-hour drive away. I also had my mind set on some lunch and a beer on the way home.

The morning walk is easy and eventually I make my way to the Temperance River. I follow this down to the state park with the same name. It’s a showy river with lots of falls, cauldrons and rushing water. I stop quite often to take pictures and shoot a little video.

Because it’s a weekend and there is easy access there are plenty of day hikers out today. I turn out of the park and head right back up the other bank as the trail turns north almost at the exact same place it came out from the south.

With the river behind me, I head to the next and last challenge of my trip. Up from the river at an elevation of 900 feet to the top of Carlton Peak at around 1600 feet. All within about a mile and a half.

Eventually Carlton peak is in my sights, it looks like a little mountain with granite showing at the top. I slowly make my way up the trail. I reach the split in the trail where one goes on and one goes to the summit. I head for the summit. Why would I come this far and not finish going another 150 feet up to get to the top? On the way I pass a family coming down. A little girl tells me I will love the view.

A few more minutes and she’s right. It’s a wonderful view. It’s also nice and breezy. I relax, take it in. I can see Silver Bay from up here as well as quite a ways into Lake Superior and surrounding area. There are also the remains of footings for what was once a fire tower. Eventually some other people come up and break my solitude. Time to finish the trip.

The rest of the way is all down hill and once down, all board walk to the parking lot. I can see why this has a lot of people, it’s an easy 4-mile round trip from the parking lot to the peak.

I cross the road and see my car in the parking lot. That’s it, I did it. Any doubts I had on my ability were for nothing. All told I did 50.3 miles. Milestone met.

I freshened up best as I could and changed into some clean clothes, when Larry the shuttle driver pulls up to let some others off. I laugh wave and yell “Hey Larry! Longtime no see.”

He smiles and said “seems like only yesterday!”

I finish going through my stuff and prep for the drive, in my Crocs.

I get to Two Harbors and stop at Blackwoods restaurant. Mike and I ate here and the food was good. It’s still good. I wolfed down a firehouse burger (Bacon, Pepper Jack Cheese, Onion strings, Jalapeños) and fries. I then head a few blocks down to Castle Danger Brewing for well-deserved end of trail beer on their very nice and very new deck. I savor the sun and the cool north shore temps.

As I start the remaining drive back I can’t help but think what’s next?

Photo Album Here

Last Halloween, Tracy and I had been married for 25 years. We have lived more life married than not! It was time to celebrate. We had talked about going to Key West the last few years. This would be the year to go…..back.

Key West was where we went for our honeymoon, 25 years ago. Oddly they started out very similar. Back in 1992 Hurricane Andrew hit Florida and we had to deal with residual damage after the fact. This year Hurricane Irma hit the Keys almost the same dates and again we had to deal with going post hurricane.

This time down would also be a little different, no hotel. This time we stayed on a large cabin cruiser that sat in a Stock Island marina. Last time we drove down, this time we flew to Ft Lauderdale and only driving the remainder of the way down.

Our flight was mid-day, and we stopped about half way down the keys for dinner. While at dinner I got the details on where the boat was, how to get there and a few other pertinent details.

Being late fall, the days were getting shorter. By the time we actually got to the marina it was dark. We found the boat and unpacked. I found some beers in one of the fridges on the boat and we each had one as we relaxed on the deck.

That night we slept oddly. We used the cabin that looked to be the biggest but the shape of the bed proved to be less than ideal. The next night we slept in the other cabin. No matter, the weather was awesome and we went in search of some breakfast.. We were not exactly on the island of Key West we had a 5-minute drive to the island and about 8 minutes to make it to downtown Key West. Of course we found a Starbucks and took care of that needed fix. We really didn’t find much in the area to eat but on the way back we noticed the French bakery tucked away on the side of a larger building. They made fresh croissants. I was in heaven, coffee and croissants? It’s all I need. Tracy didn’t mind too much as they had chocolate ones as well.

The rest of the day we spent in downtown Key West, looking for things to do for the week, eating and of course enjoying a few drinks along the way. We found a great little place, The Rum Bar as one of the first places we stopped. We made some small talk with the bartender, then another younger couple came in. The woman was pretty obnoxious asking all kinds of questions, where to eat where to drink on and on. At first it was alright but she never stopped, continuing with questions that were already answered making silly comments. A few of the locals sat and rolled their eyes and the bartender just kept trying to keep her happy but at the same time realizing this lady was a lost cause. They finally left and we all had a good laugh at their expense. From there on out we made it a point to stop in the Rum Bar on a daily basis (Mojitos were very good) and say hi to our new bartender friend.
The rest of the day we bounced from bar to bar and restaurant to restaurant. Enjoying the weather, the atmosphere and each other’s company.

The rest of the week was a lot of the same, watch the sunrise from the boat, gets some pastries and Decide what we would do that day. One night we saw a very cool two-man band, that traveled very well, so many people said we had to see the Massacoutsics.  So we did! And we had a great time.

We did find a favorite place for breakfast that’s for sure. Ricky’s Blue Heaven. The food was incredible, it was worth the wait every time we went. Banana bread so good we bought a loaf on our last day to bring home!

We did all the regular touristy things too, Sloppy Joes Bar, the Hemingway House. We did the light house tour and the Key West Historical Museum. Many of the things we did 25 years ago.

One of the things we noticed were people driving scooters all over. By the third day we decided that we would rent a scooter to get around. Less screwing around with parking. Standing in line for the scooter rental we overheard them talking about lawsuits. Lawsuits? We left the line. Instead we walked about another block and rented cruiser bikes instead! Baskets up front, nice seats, no regard for traffic laws! They rest of the time we spent in downtown we rented bikes. Faster than walking and so much easier than a car, go down a one way the wrong way, no parking hassles. All for $10 a day per bike. With wheels at our disposal we visited Fort Zachary Taylor. Old fort and state park. We self-toured the fort and spent some time at the beach, scoping spots for the powerboat races later in the week.

One of the other, standard tourist things we did (a repeat of last time here) was a sunset cruise. Last time was on a catamaran, this time on a double masted schooner. A few hours of relaxation, no motor noise, drinks and food, the wind and the waves. Watching the sun set in the west.

Not quite done a few more adventures still in the wings. We took a ferry ride to one of the hardest to reach National Parks, the Dry Tortugas. It’s a 2 hour ferry ride one way. The only way to get to this place is by boat or sea plane. It was an incredible day. We were able to tour Fort Jefferson, the largest brick masonry structure in the Unites States.  Started in 1824 and never actually finished. Very interesting history and story behind the tiny island. When we were done touring the fort we headed to the beach where we could swim and snorkel as much as we wanted. Tracy loves to snorkel! (not really).

On the boat ride back, we encountered the only rain we saw all week. A quick squall that the boat went around the edge of.

One of the lasts days the boat races were in full swing and we went back to watch for a few hours. These boat races were going on twenty-five years ago and we watched them last time from a catamaran in the middle of the course.

Finally, it was time to leave paradise. We drove back but we had one more night and stayed in a swanky hotel in downtown Miami. Of course, we went out for dinner and then walked the famous south beach at night.

The next day we headed to the airport and our flight home. We need to go back, but I don’t think we should wait another 25 years to do it.

Full Photo Album Here