It’s been a while since I have written anything. All of my recent writings are about some new adventure I did and this will be no different. At least I am consistent with the content and this has morphed into a travel/life event platform for me. I see so many people posting daily drivel on Facebook, does anyone really care that much what you are doing at every moment? Short posts for short attention spans. Reading this is a commitment. It might take you ten minutes. Ten minutes you will never get back, but don’t say you weren’t warned.

A month and a half ago I realized I was going to be up in Minnesota for work and thought, hey I should really try to stretch a long weekend out of it and do a little hiking trip on the North Shore. I booked the flights the rental cars and started planning the route. Thursday into Sunday gave me over 3 full days to play with and time to extend myself.

With a milestone birthday looming that has been affecting my psyche more than any other, the route is about 47 miles. Not quite 50 but to take it another trailhead or double back jut to get that number seems a bit contrived. I know that there are side trails, looks outs and trails to campsites that should get me to that milestone number without too much effort.

The weeks leading up to this I begin to have doubts. Not sure why, I’m in pretty good shape, running a few times a week, but my neck has been flaring up more than I cared to admit.

A new work trip pops up, this one to Seattle, the week before this Minnesota trip. That means I will be gone From Wednesday to Friday, come home for the weekend and head back out Monday and not be back home until Sunday night (Monday morning). It’s not ideal because I am sure something will get missed now packing between trips but I make a few extra lists. I love lists.

Seattle in the summertime is a very nice place. I could and should do a separate write up on this trip alone. Maybe.

Anyway, the next Monday I complete packing my work bag and my backpack into checked luggage and off to Minnesota I go.

Work goes quickly and at night I meet with co workers for eats and drinks. I also have a few errands to run. Things like Target for a few food items, REI for a gas cannister (can’t take them on a plane), and then I realize I have no post trail shoes. My trail runners and my dress shoes, that’s all I have. The last two times I did this trail, I (we) got wet and muddy. I couldn’t wear wet muddy shoes through the airport or want to drive home in them. I have been on the search for a pair of camp shoes since I started doing this. Too heavy, no support, no foot protection, don’t stay on well. I had gone back and forth on a pair of Crocs for the task for a long time, but they are heavy and well, they are Crocs. I realize it’s time to re-look at them. The Mall of America has a Croc store, they have a new lighter version (25% lighter!) and they don’t look like Lego Dutch boy. All plusses. I bite and take a pair home. I must be getting old, I just gave in to Crocs. What’s next? Socks and Sandals? 4:30 early bird dinners? Winters in Florida? I shudder at the thought.

The next morning, I swap rental cars and start the 4-hour drive from Minneapolis to Schroeder Minnesota. It’s a boring, uneventful drive to Duluth and once through Duluth do you start to get some nice scenery. Highway 61 hugs the lakeshore all the way to Canada.

However, once you hit Two Harbors, you know you are getting close. I started passing all the spots I had hiked in the past. The state parks, the rivers, Split Rock Lighthouse. I pass the road where I will get dropped off to start the trip. Its also the place I stopped last time I was up here. Doing it this way I will have done a continuous section of the trail, with no repeating.

Over 20 minutes go by and I still have a way to go to get to my trailhead at Britton Peak. I really wonder if I over estimated my abilities, a modicum of doubt creeps in.

I finally pull into the parking lot. It’s a very nice trailhead, as it is shared with hikers and the mountain bike trails that start here. I am quite a bit early for my pick up and that’s ok, I have time to shakedown my gear and makes sure I don’t forget anything.

So far, the weather has been decent, although they are calling for a 50 percent chance of rain and thunderstorms tonight and for the next few days. It’s sunny now but will it last?

Finally, the shuttle service I contracted with shows up and I load up. Larry and I shoot the breeze for the ride and he’s impressed (or concerned?) with my ambitious mileage goals for the next three and a half days.  It doesn’t do much for my confidence either way.

Like a hitchhiker at his stop, Larry leaves me at the wayside of my choice. I flop the pack on the ground take a few pictures take a few deep breaths and start the walk. My pack is loaded, but not overly so. With food, water and camera gear it’s around 26 pounds. I have learned since taking 40 pounds into the mountains of Arizona. With old age comes experience and wisdom I guess.

Of course, the trail goes straight up from the drop point to Section 13, a popular destination with rock and free climbers.  There is also a ‘nuisance’ bear at the campsite for this area. Maybe I will see a bear? Neat. I walk the next few miles, go through a boardwalk in a bog, see a 15-foot-tall glacial erratic and the weather stays good, low 70’s mostly sunny. Beats work anytime.

Now this first day is about 10 miles as I didn’t want to get to camp too late since I didn’t get started until 2:00 PM anyway. Other than a few climbs it’s not to strenuous, and my body seems ok with a pack. It had been 5 months since I did this last.

The campsite is North Egge Lake. I have the place to myself. Obviously, being on a lake the water is easy to access and it makes for a peaceful spot.

I set up camp and set about a few chores, have my food bag to hang, make dinner, get water. I walk to the edge of the lake and there is a pair of swans right in the middle of it! Very peaceful, I think I am the only person on the lake today.

I take my water bag back to start filtering. Except the filter is not working. I should be able to squeeze water through and I am getting nothing. Are you kidding me? This is how my trip starts and ends? I mean I can boil water, but there is not enough gas for my stove to last, I could do it over a fire but my pot only holds 22 ounces a time anyway, I will be here all day. I then remember I do have backup purification tablets if I need to, but I don’t want to go there just yet. I keep trying, and finally I start getting a slow drip. I hang the water bag and the catchment bag on a tree and let it drip. Not the best but it’s something.

Back to dinner, the old favorite, Pack-it Gourmet All American Hamburger. Only takes 4 ounces of water, perfect for my low water situation. It’s also just tasty. Like taco meat that tastes like grilled hamburger and all the fixins’ on a tortilla. Simple and satisfying. I also had a snickers bar for dessert. The new espresso flavor. Not too bad. 

By this time I have drip filtered about 1 liter of water. Still not great, but I drink it up because I am thirsty. This time I have ditched the bladder and went with two bottles of water. I have about 16 ounces less water at any time but also less weight and bulk. Also, this area trail is littered with good water sources. Just stop and filter…if your filter works like it should.

I keep the filter to keep going and I get ready for bed. Its almost 9 and its getting cloudy, perhaps some of those overnight showers they predicted will come though soon.

By the way, I did get my shoes quite wet and muddy in one spot today, otherwise the trail is in really good condition. That said, my Crocs are wonderful, let me feet air out provide the cushion and protection around camp, I am officially converted.

With the food bag hung as high as ever and 2 liters of water filtered, I go to bed.

The next thing I know its 5:30 am. I lay in ‘bed’ until almost 6:30 because I have all day. I am on vacation anyway. When I do roll out, I am not sore anywhere, my neck is fine. Maybe I should sleep in a hammock at home?

I make coffee (instant), oatmeal (cooked) and peach protein smoothie (instant) for breakfast. It never rained last night and everything is dry. It’s still very overcast but so far so good.

Eventually I break camp and hit the trail before 9. Today is the longest day I have planned for the whole week. Over 16 miles to the East Caribou River Campsite. There are multiple bail out sites along the way if I am not feeling it, but that then makes the remainder of my days that much longer.

Today also has about 2500 feet of elevation gain along with 3200 feet of elevation loss. As long as I take a break when I feel the need I should be fine.

So far the weather has been good to me, but eventually it does start to sprinkle. I take a break, put some foot glide on and put my pack cover on to prep for the rain. Foot glide is just a fancy name for a lanolin-based lotion that helps keep the friction down on your feet (or other chafe-y bits) since my feet would be a bit wet with the rain I though it best to do it now.

The rain was short lived.

Today being Friday I did run into a few other hikers but honestly, I expected more.

Eventually I made it into George Crosby State park. I do a little extra detour to find a nice picnic area on a lake. I eat lunch, air my feet and shoes out and filter water. By this time the filter is starting to work better, I can actually start to squeeze water out of it and its more than a drip. This is a relief for sure. Not having adequate (clean) water can be stressful.

I pack up and head back to the trail. I have about 10 miles in with about 7 to go. The rain has stopped but its still and muggy. Because of this I drink a lot of water, and I am almost out by the time I get to the next source, but it’s not a great source and I end up skipping it.

Finally, I reach East Caribou campsite. A large YMCA youth group has it taken over. Luckily for me you are required to share and it’s a multi group site. This means I have a secondary site with fire ring and benches all to myself. I set up camp, change into my camp clothes (clean and dry) as well as my Crocs. I go to the river and drink it dry. Almost. Ok not even close but damn that was so good.

Working on dinner another group of four guys come in and we share the secondary site for the night. They are all around 26-28 years old and sociable. They offer me some of the brats and food they cook over the fire. They also have two dogs with them Ted and Bella. I stay up way too late hanging out with them by the fire….

They next morning it’s more of the same, lay in bed, eat, break camp and head out by around 9:00 AM. Again, no rush and the miles will be less today, less than the previous day anyway.

As I head out the YMCA group is half awake. Man, I wish I could sleep that late once in a while.

The day is overcast again, not sure if it will rain I decide to leave the pack cover off. This next section has several campsites along the way in which I can take a break, water up, have lunch or if worse comes to worse stop for the day.

As expected, the trail starts straight up, that’s the problem when you camp on these river spots. I eventually enter some heavy overgrowth on the trail, ferns and other plants all decide to give me their morning dew as I brush past. After a mile of this my pants are soaked, mid-thigh down, by shoes are soaked as well. At least the sun starts to peak out.

Eventually I decide to stop at Dyers Creek camp. I drop my pack, convert my pants to shorts, take off my shoes and socks, take off my shirt all to dry in the sun while I enjoy some snacks. I sun myself for about 20 minutes before a couple come in with the same idea, to stop for lunch. I gather up some of my gear as I am spread out all over the benches at this camp. They get to marvel in my pasty-white-farmer-tan having upper body, because I am not getting dressed until I am ready.

About 15 minutes later and after some conversation with them I finally head back out. Refreshed, dried out and ready for the next camp. They tell me Falls Camp is really nice, that’s where they were the night before. I take it under consideration although it is almost two miles short of my planned camp.

The sun is out in full now and it warms up. The trails has a few open spots as I do a sort of ridge walk and I pause to take in any breezes I can get.

Eventually the trail parallels the Cross River. I get to Falls Camp, hike up the hill. Take my pack off and scout around. Yeah, it’s ok but its only 3:30 in the afternoon and I could make tomorrow just that much shorter if I keep going. That’s it. I re-shoulder my pack and head back to the trail.

It’s almost 2 more miles until I get to the South Cross River camp, and there is a group of three already set up. No worries I ask if I could join them off to the side and set up camp.

Once that was done, I went to get water from the river and realized there was another camp right there on the river! I didn’t have to share anything and didn’t have to impose on the other hikers. What should I do? tear it all down and move? It turns out that I am extremely lazy at this point and say screw it. I will stay right where I am.

Made dinner of pasta Bolognese and another snicker bar. This time a hazelnut one. It’s ok, I would stick with normal or the espresso ones given a choice.

We are in a little canyon so the sun isn’t long in the campsite. I lounge in my hammock and pull out my Kindle. Yes, I have dragged this thing for 40 plus miles for 3 days now and this is the first time I even cracked it open. I read for an hour, then decide to move from sitting to laying down. I read for a little more as another hiker comes into the site and sets up. She talks with the others and doesn’t say anything to me. I don’t care I didn’t make myself too available anyway eating and reading in the hammock. As when at home the Kindle emits some form of sleeping gas and I fall asleep.

Sunday morning. I get up make coffee, eat, break camp and get ready to go to church. My church. The one with the trees and rivers and sunny skies. Every one but one person is still sleeping by the time I leave.

Today is the shortest mileage day of the trip at around 8 miles. I still like to start early as I have to get back to the airport which is as you know, is a 4-hour drive away. I also had my mind set on some lunch and a beer on the way home.

The morning walk is easy and eventually I make my way to the Temperance River. I follow this down to the state park with the same name. It’s a showy river with lots of falls, cauldrons and rushing water. I stop quite often to take pictures and shoot a little video.

Because it’s a weekend and there is easy access there are plenty of day hikers out today. I turn out of the park and head right back up the other bank as the trail turns north almost at the exact same place it came out from the south.

With the river behind me, I head to the next and last challenge of my trip. Up from the river at an elevation of 900 feet to the top of Carlton Peak at around 1600 feet. All within about a mile and a half.

Eventually Carlton peak is in my sights, it looks like a little mountain with granite showing at the top. I slowly make my way up the trail. I reach the split in the trail where one goes on and one goes to the summit. I head for the summit. Why would I come this far and not finish going another 150 feet up to get to the top? On the way I pass a family coming down. A little girl tells me I will love the view.

A few more minutes and she’s right. It’s a wonderful view. It’s also nice and breezy. I relax, take it in. I can see Silver Bay from up here as well as quite a ways into Lake Superior and surrounding area. There are also the remains of footings for what was once a fire tower. Eventually some other people come up and break my solitude. Time to finish the trip.

The rest of the way is all down hill and once down, all board walk to the parking lot. I can see why this has a lot of people, it’s an easy 4-mile round trip from the parking lot to the peak.

I cross the road and see my car in the parking lot. That’s it, I did it. Any doubts I had on my ability were for nothing. All told I did 50.3 miles. Milestone met.

I freshened up best as I could and changed into some clean clothes, when Larry the shuttle driver pulls up to let some others off. I laugh wave and yell “Hey Larry! Longtime no see.”

He smiles and said “seems like only yesterday!”

I finish going through my stuff and prep for the drive, in my Crocs.

I get to Two Harbors and stop at Blackwoods restaurant. Mike and I ate here and the food was good. It’s still good. I wolfed down a firehouse burger (Bacon, Pepper Jack Cheese, Onion strings, Jalapeños) and fries. I then head a few blocks down to Castle Danger Brewing for well-deserved end of trail beer on their very nice and very new deck. I savor the sun and the cool north shore temps.

As I start the remaining drive back I can’t help but think what’s next?

Photo Album Here

Last Halloween, Tracy and I had been married for 25 years. We have lived more life married than not! It was time to celebrate. We had talked about going to Key West the last few years. This would be the year to go…..back.

Key West was where we went for our honeymoon, 25 years ago. Oddly they started out very similar. Back in 1992 Hurricane Andrew hit Florida and we had to deal with residual damage after the fact. This year Hurricane Irma hit the Keys almost the same dates and again we had to deal with going post hurricane.

This time down would also be a little different, no hotel. This time we stayed on a large cabin cruiser that sat in a Stock Island marina. Last time we drove down, this time we flew to Ft Lauderdale and only driving the remainder of the way down.

Our flight was mid-day, and we stopped about half way down the keys for dinner. While at dinner I got the details on where the boat was, how to get there and a few other pertinent details.

Being late fall, the days were getting shorter. By the time we actually got to the marina it was dark. We found the boat and unpacked. I found some beers in one of the fridges on the boat and we each had one as we relaxed on the deck.

That night we slept oddly. We used the cabin that looked to be the biggest but the shape of the bed proved to be less than ideal. The next night we slept in the other cabin. No matter, the weather was awesome and we went in search of some breakfast.. We were not exactly on the island of Key West we had a 5-minute drive to the island and about 8 minutes to make it to downtown Key West. Of course we found a Starbucks and took care of that needed fix. We really didn’t find much in the area to eat but on the way back we noticed the French bakery tucked away on the side of a larger building. They made fresh croissants. I was in heaven, coffee and croissants? It’s all I need. Tracy didn’t mind too much as they had chocolate ones as well.

The rest of the day we spent in downtown Key West, looking for things to do for the week, eating and of course enjoying a few drinks along the way. We found a great little place, The Rum Bar as one of the first places we stopped. We made some small talk with the bartender, then another younger couple came in. The woman was pretty obnoxious asking all kinds of questions, where to eat where to drink on and on. At first it was alright but she never stopped, continuing with questions that were already answered making silly comments. A few of the locals sat and rolled their eyes and the bartender just kept trying to keep her happy but at the same time realizing this lady was a lost cause. They finally left and we all had a good laugh at their expense. From there on out we made it a point to stop in the Rum Bar on a daily basis (Mojitos were very good) and say hi to our new bartender friend.
The rest of the day we bounced from bar to bar and restaurant to restaurant. Enjoying the weather, the atmosphere and each other’s company.

The rest of the week was a lot of the same, watch the sunrise from the boat, gets some pastries and Decide what we would do that day. One night we saw a very cool two-man band, that traveled very well, so many people said we had to see the Massacoutsics.  So we did! And we had a great time.

We did find a favorite place for breakfast that’s for sure. Ricky’s Blue Heaven. The food was incredible, it was worth the wait every time we went. Banana bread so good we bought a loaf on our last day to bring home!

We did all the regular touristy things too, Sloppy Joes Bar, the Hemingway House. We did the light house tour and the Key West Historical Museum. Many of the things we did 25 years ago.

One of the things we noticed were people driving scooters all over. By the third day we decided that we would rent a scooter to get around. Less screwing around with parking. Standing in line for the scooter rental we overheard them talking about lawsuits. Lawsuits? We left the line. Instead we walked about another block and rented cruiser bikes instead! Baskets up front, nice seats, no regard for traffic laws! They rest of the time we spent in downtown we rented bikes. Faster than walking and so much easier than a car, go down a one way the wrong way, no parking hassles. All for $10 a day per bike. With wheels at our disposal we visited Fort Zachary Taylor. Old fort and state park. We self-toured the fort and spent some time at the beach, scoping spots for the powerboat races later in the week.

One of the other, standard tourist things we did (a repeat of last time here) was a sunset cruise. Last time was on a catamaran, this time on a double masted schooner. A few hours of relaxation, no motor noise, drinks and food, the wind and the waves. Watching the sun set in the west.

Not quite done a few more adventures still in the wings. We took a ferry ride to one of the hardest to reach National Parks, the Dry Tortugas. It’s a 2 hour ferry ride one way. The only way to get to this place is by boat or sea plane. It was an incredible day. We were able to tour Fort Jefferson, the largest brick masonry structure in the Unites States.  Started in 1824 and never actually finished. Very interesting history and story behind the tiny island. When we were done touring the fort we headed to the beach where we could swim and snorkel as much as we wanted. Tracy loves to snorkel! (not really).

On the boat ride back, we encountered the only rain we saw all week. A quick squall that the boat went around the edge of.

One of the lasts days the boat races were in full swing and we went back to watch for a few hours. These boat races were going on twenty-five years ago and we watched them last time from a catamaran in the middle of the course.

Finally, it was time to leave paradise. We drove back but we had one more night and stayed in a swanky hotel in downtown Miami. Of course, we went out for dinner and then walked the famous south beach at night.

The next day we headed to the airport and our flight home. We need to go back, but I don’t think we should wait another 25 years to do it.

Full Photo Album Here

10 Years....

It was 10 years ago today I started this blog. 826 posts later here we are.I have posted a lot less than I used to. Maybe because I did this pre Facebook to show off what I was doing or speak my mind. It's not like I didn't want to keep posting, it seemed like I had grown out of it. Or rather no one wants to read a story, they just want a quick status a like and they move on.

Sure it takes a bit more effort, but often that is more satisfying. Currently I have a few things I wanted to throw up here but have just been putting it off. Like a recap of our Florida Keys Honeymoon V2, a winter hike and my seemingly snake bit health problems.

I thought about doing one of my nerd stat laden posts as well, you know, to review but I think that's all summed up on the side bar.

The real question is how long will I keep this going? Another 10 years?

Its a new year

I have the day off today and usually the last few MLK days I have spent outside. More specifically snowboarding. Unfortunately, I am having issues with my neck and will not be doing that this year.

We did just get a few inches of snow, just enough to cover the grass again, but not enough to bother with cross country skiing or even snowshoeing.

Since I have been somewhat homebound, I have been on a real cleaning and 'simplification' binge the last week or so. Both physical and digital. Took a large box of stuff to best buy for recycling I have a box for goodwill and a full garbage can.

I was going through some of my files and found a document where I listed outdoor trips for 2017. Larger ones that require travel. It was a short list:

1. Havasua Falls.  Check!
2. Porcupine Mountains. Check!
3. Finish what you start Arizona Trail (re-attempting 2016 hike). Nope.

As Meatloaf sang -  2 out of 3 ain't bad.

Being cooped up and having the day off I decided to think and publish options for this year (body willing). This list started getting large so maybe it should be a living adventure list that gets added to and checked off with trips completed and trips re run.

First I want to start off with a few on the water. Long boat trips are different than backpacking because of the stuff you can carry and while difficult are not as taxing.

Here is a simple local one that could be done in a few weekends. The Milwaukee river. Thiensville dam to lake Michigan. I have done Barton to Thiensville. The rest is more an urban paddle and I have wanted to do this for the last few years. I would also need to do about 5 miles between Kewaskum and Barton. I would then have paddled the whole river (the navigable parts).

The Namekagon River. This National Scenic Waterway is so nice. The river section in Wisconsin is about 90 miles. Jim, Joel and I have done 2/3 of it.  One more weekend and we could say we did the whole thing.

Similarly, the Bois Brule river has always been one I have been interested in. Gliding past the lodge used by several presidents for trout fishing, some exciting rapid runs and finally the emptying into Lake Superior.

Apostle Islands. Tracy and I bought a book at the canoe show on this. Make base camp on an island and day trip all round the others. Relaxing and adventuresome all in the same.

Door county. Of course. Again, I have a book on day trips for Door county. A long weekend to see shipwrecks, beaches and things you don't see from land.

Finally, a trip for a week and more people the merrier kind of thing. The BWCA in Minnesota. Boundary Waters Canoe Area. I have done this 2 times but so long ago. A group of folks, a few canoes, 5 days to get lost and relax. I just looked up full outfitting rates and its reasonable $400-500 per person for 7 days. This includes everything, even food. Even cheaper with larger groups. Hmmm really need to think about that one more.

On to the trail.

Easily one of my favorites, the Superior Hiking Trail. I have about 55 miles of the 250+ miles completed and before I even found that document and started writing this I had already scoped out a next section. 47 miles. 3 nights and 4 days. A long weekend perhaps

Then there are a few northern Wisconsin ones as well.  The Ice Age Trail and the North Country Scenic trails both have long sections that are easily accessible for long weekends or more.

The Arizona trail that keeps mocking me? Probably not this year. Although with Mackenzie attending school in Tucson, this is going to get done one way or another.

I would go back and do the Porcupines again. It's a nice trail and can be easily done as a loop.

The Smokey Mountains are also intriguing. Getting a taste of them again on our southern school road trip last summer, lots of options to do sections of the Appalachian Trail.

Eventually, not this year and not sure when, the John Muir Trail in the Sierras of California is another bucket list trip. That requires a lot of planning. Nearly a month off work to travel and hike it, it's not something to take lightly.

Thats all I have for now. Any suggestions or comments leave them below.

Havasua Falls!

Sitting at Mom’s house eating to excess. It was Thanksgiving. However, that meant tomorrow Joel and I would begin an adventure 9 months in the planning. One of bucket list proportions.

Day One

(Black) Friday afternoon Joel and head off to the airport for our flight to Las Vegas. Logistically, this made the most sense to be our insertion point. There were a few other options, none with availability or discounts for airfare and accommodations that Vegas could offer. Honestly, I enjoy the planning of the trip way more that someone should.

We had an uneventful flight into Vegas and took a Lyft to our first hotel of the trip. The Westin. Off strip, no casinos, no bullshit, just simple but comfortable rooms.

We dropped our bags and did some sightseeing. Typical Vegas stuff, see the themed hotels, casinos, restaurants and take some pictures.

Being quite hungry we decided to eat at Guy Fieri's Vegas Kitchen. Partially as a joke, partially curious.

Surprisingly the Mayor of Flavortown did not disappoint. It’s a higher level of bar food. Big burgers done to order although a bit over the top with some of the toppings, but tasty none the less.  I expect nothing less than extreme from Guy. The side of fries were a bit of a letdown. A mix of skinny, fat, waffle, and other cuts of potatoes. Kind of felt like when you have 3 partial bags of ore-ida frozen potatoes and you cook them all up at the same time.

I also had a jalapeño margarita. Chili salt on the rim, pepper slices in the drink. The waiter explained ‘It was pretty hot, just so you know’. I bet this gets sent back a bit. It was spicy but nothing to be afraid of.

A few more Vegas-y things like the fountains of Bellagio and we headed back for the night.

Day Two

Saturday was more of a move from base camp to our next site in prep to actually get to the trail.

We slept in, went to a little breakfast place that made gourmet egg sandwiches, Eggslut. They had a line, they were a bit pricy but yeah, they were really good. I mean tri-tip and chimichurri sauce on my egg bagel? Absolutely.

We packed up our stuff, got a ride back to the airport so we could pick up our rental car. A fine Hyundai Sonata, one of the finest off-road vehicles if you occasionally need it. (See my Saguaro trip for explanation).

From there we hit REI for a gas canister, since it’s illegal to fly with cans of pressurized iso-butane, whatever…

We found a Target for additional comestibles. Fresh-ish food, water and snacks (Fritos!). Lastly, we hit the ATM for a little scratch because the reservation isn’t much for debit or credit cards.

By this time its near lunch time and well we were hungry again. We had lunch at a local (as in way off strip, city of Las Vegas proper) place called Honey Salt. An interesting menu of brunch type items. Joel had breakfast nachos. Yep, tortilla chips, cheese, avocado, salsa, peppers topped off with two eggs and crème fraiche. I had a grilled cheese and bacon sandwich and a side of tomato soup. Sourdough bread with bacon crumble baked in on top of it. The soup was excellent.

After our second breakfast it was time to really hit the road, for reals. We had a three and a half hour drive ahead of us to our next ‘camp’ just outside Peach Springs, Arizona.

It was an easy if not bring drive on some interstate and about 60 miles of good old route 66.

We got to the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn at 5:50 PM. (we lost an hour due to crossing time zones as well). Checked in just as they were shutting down for the night. After 6 we would have had to call the on call person I guess. We also did a quick stop at the little store for some mocha-chocs bullshit coffee drinks as I will need my caffeine fix tomorrow morning.

I know I am spoiled when it comes to hotels. When travelling for work, I am spoiled and that has carried over to my personal travel as well. This place is a throwback. One of those road side motels where you park right outside of your room type places. We get to the door, use the key (real key, not some key-card) and walk in. She did not disappoint. Cinder block walls, linoleum floors (cold) 6 channels on the TV, no cell service. Joel immediately called it the murder room. I had to laugh as I thought it too. But in the middle of nowhere you get what you can get, plus it builds character.

This evening we unpacked everything made sure we had everything we needed and wouldn’t forget anything. Also leaving some things we probably wouldn’t use. We both took what would be our last shower for the next four days and went to bed.

Day Three

5:00 Am came early as it tends to do. I never sleep well one night in a hotel and with these beds, this was no exception.

We dressed, had a few quick breakfast items and were on the road by 5:20 AM. Why so early? We still had to drive over 60 miles to the trailhead and my research told me the earlier the start the better. Less heat, less people etc. Made sense, plus more time to relax when we get there.

It was about 6:45 when we got to the trailhead parking lot. We stretched our legs, took a quick walk around (still pretty dark) and pulled our packs out of the trunk. We slowly made our way over to the start of the trail, waiting for the sun to break a bit before travelling down a narrow trail and 2500’ of elevation drop.

A few minutes before 7 we began the 8 mile or was it 10 mile (or more) hike to Supai. The mileage was questionable as they say it’s 8 miles to the reservation, 10 miles to the campsites, but the campsite area is over a mile long, so we prep for the longest and enjoy it if it ends up being shorter, right?

Right off the bat, I knew this was going to be special. This is a feeder to the Grand Canyon and the early morning light was hitting the high canyon walls, it may sound cliché, but almost spritital.

The hike down wasn’t too hard, very dusty as it is also a horse trail. Their hooves beat the soil and rocks to a fine powder.

About two thirds of the way down the initial decent we met a burro and a horse. Wild? Probably not but they could care less, they see people all the time I am certain.

We continue down the trail until we get to the canyon floor. The weather so far is great, temps in the mid 50’s. Not going to sweat, not too cold.

As we hike through the canyon, its just one spectacular view after another. Every turn a different perspective of what we may have just seen. I take a lot of pictures and video, but I know it won’t do it the justice of being here in the moment, but I try to capture it.

Not sure how long we were hiking when we met our first few people coming the other way. I decide to keep count of how many people we pass. It’s something I do almost every hike, especially the more remote ones. Not sure why, maybe it gives me a feeling of solitude knowing there are not too many people where I am.

We hike on more and we pass many more people coming out. The number keeps climbing 30, 50…     Then a huge group of over 30 in one pass. Joel and I stopped counting at 150. Makes sense though, it is Sunday and many people probably are here only for the weekend.

This place gets very busy and it is near impossible to get reservations. I think they have around a daily capacity of around 300 campers. Based on how many people we saw leaving and we were only a few going in, I thought it might not be near as crowded. This was confirmed by a guy we passed who told us ‘You’ll have a great time the place is almost empty”.

Close to three hours into our hike, we finally start seeing the reservation. Houses and horse corrals start to line the path. Eventually we make it to the camp office. We check in, get wristbands, like we were at some waterpark. From here it is supposed to be another 2 miles to the campsites.

We continue through the reservation. There are some schools, a lodge, a church, cafeteria and general store. Oh yeah, and a helipad as well. There are three ways into and out of this place: By foot, By horse or by helicopter.

As we leave the ‘town’ we come around a corner to the first waterfall: Havasua Falls. Joel and I just look at it then at each other, grinning. It’s beautiful. I think we said wow and bonkers. Turns out we would use these works a lot the next four days.

Eventually we make it to the campsites proper. There are very few people here, we have the choice of pretty much anywhere we want to camp.

Since we can be picky we take our time and go back and forth until we decide one, near the end opposite of where we came in.

We drop our packs, and after having them on our backs for the last 4 hours it’s a welcome break. I survey the site, pick some trees and hang our hammocks. Once that’s done we set up a few other things and that’s that. Its still very early. I read you should expect between 5 and 6 hours to get here. We were here and set up in a little over four hours. It’s not even 11 AM.

We grab our water bottles and take a walk back to the spring for drinking water. This is the source for the whole camp.

I failed to mention as you enter the camp there are some small huts. The Fry Bread hut. It’s basically some tarp covered sheds in which you can buy hot food from. A satellite of the cafeteria 2 miles back. You can get this food, If, and that is a big if, they are open. They have hours posted but even that sign jokes about them. They are open when they are open. I assume during the peak summer months they probably stick to the hours and are open often.

As fate would have it, we stopped by after getting water (As it was only about 100 yards from the spring). It was just opening for the day. The woman working there told us to come back in 20 minutes as she had needed some time to prep a few things.

Wait we did, close to 20 minutes on the dot we were back. First the bad news. They were out of taco meat and cheese and beans, so no fry bread Indian tacos. They did have beef rolls, ‘rez’ dogs and fry bread. That’s what we got. First fry bread. It’s fried dough, plain and simple, like something you would get at the state fair. This one came with cinnamon, powdered sugar and a drizzle of honey. The rez dogs were hot dogs cooked in a fry bread ‘bun’ and the beef roll was ground beef  mixed with some corn and chili, wrapped in frybread, deep fried and then topped with salsa.

We devoured all of it. After virtually no breakfast, nearly 12 miles of hiking we were craving the calories. And these where the kind you crave after activity, Fatty Carbs. We left having visions of fry bread later over the next few days..

Sadly, it was never to happen again. They were never open again during our stay. And we looked, several times.

With full bellies and potable water, we arrive back at our site. What to do now? Relax. Joel ‘tries out’ his hammock, I sit and read a bit.

Some of that reading is the rules and regulations we received when we checked in. Also, a map of the area.

The map is set up based on the three outhouses. One at the beginning, one halfway though and one near the need of the camp. A quick little note about these facilities. They are some of the nicest outdoor toilets you will ever encounter. Special composting models that were cleaned daily. Just a little note for those how have aversion to backwoods facilities.

Anyway, I look where we are on the map and realize that we are so far at the end of the camp that we are perhaps only 100 yards from the next major feature. Mooney Falls.

I look up from the map, turn to my left an notice a small bridge near the back of our site that disappears into some brush. When Joel gets up I tell him about the map and where we are. We take a little walk. In less than 1 minute we are at the right side edge looking into the bottom of Mooney Falls. Over 100 foot drop. All we can say is wow.

We take it all in and can’t wait to get down there tomorrow and start exploring, hiking, swimming. It’s only 3:30 PM right now but as we will notice the rest of the time here, the limited sunlight and being almost December, it seems darker and later than it really is. And the sun does set at around 5:00 PM anyway.

We walk back to camp and play cribbage. I picked up this most excellent handmade leather travel cribbage set. I was looking for something different but eventually found this in my search. I emailed the guy and asked him if he was still making them. We would make one for me. It is very cool. Barely larger than the deck of cards itself.

We made dinner and as I mentioned a little after 5:00 PM it is dark. We sit and talk a bit more, going over the plans for tomorrow. No fires are allowed in the camp, so we sit by lantern light. We realize the early morning and all the hiking has caught up to us. Soon we are both hanging in our hammocks reading. Which usually means about 3 pages and I am fast asleep.

Day Four

The next morning we get up around 6:30-7. That’s nearly 12 hours of sleep. I will take that anytime. We proceed to make some breakfast and I attempt to make pour over coffee. I am using this ultralight thing I picked up. It is small and it is touchy. About halfway through I get over zealous with the water and I end up with a bunch or grounds and coffee on the picnic table. I swear. Joel laughs, I drink the partial coffee I made and try again.

After breakfast we pack a daypack with water, food, a towel and extra clothing. Today we descend Mooney Falls and go further into the canyon. Beaver Falls and if we are feeling up to it all the way to the Colorado River.

The left side of Mooney Falls has the terracing and the only way to get down to the bottom of the falls. Ominously there is a sign that says 'descend at your own risk'.

The trail starts down a small passage cut into the face of the cliff. You then pop out for a little bit and again are warned with a sign that this is not easy and potentially dangerous. Back into another tunnel, that exits on the wet and steep slope for the final descent. I guess you could say they were stairs but not really. Foot holds in some places and large chains anchored into the rock here and there. The chains are wet, the ground is wet from the mist of the falls. The whole thing is kind of like a wet climbing wall you might see at some rock climbing places. Eventually you get to some wet worn wooden ladders that are not much better. The whole trip down only takes less than 10 minutes, but the adrenaline is pumping.

We both set foot on the ground at the bottom and turn around. There in all it’s glory is Mooney Falls.

We explore around the falls for a good while, wading around and enjoying this from every angle before we set off to hike the canyon. I also find a basket for carrying a prone person out of this place by helicopter. You know, just in case.

This scenery on this hike is nothing short of spectacular. Words and my pictures can’t do it justice. The high walls, the white-blue water, the ever-shifting light, changing the color and mood on every turn.

The trail itself is moderately easy. We were wearing water sandals and not our hiking shoes. Because you need to cross the river several times this seemed better than watching some people take their socks and shoes off every time. Plus, if we missed a step on a bridge no big deal. There were spots on the trail that were fun water crossings and some spots with sketchy ladders and ropes to climb up and down. We enjoy the walk and stop and admire the beauty at every opportunity.

Finally, we reach Beaver Falls. It’s a large series of little falls completly different than Havasua or Mooney. On the other side of the river on the narrow outcrop is a family (herd?) of bighorn sheep. They are jumping walking around on the small outcrops.

Eventually, they make it to the river and walk across at the top of the falls. It’s very neat to see and the way they look at the people around as if this is normal for them.

Beaver Falls is almost the end of the reservation proper, any further past this point and you were entering Grand Canyon National Parklands.

Since we had a lot of time, we thought we would make a effort at getting all the way to the Colorado River. The problem is we couldn’t find the way down to continue the trail. We saw a trail some 50 feet below the rocks we were on but how to get there? With help of some other people we located a rope attached the rocks and then disappearing over the edge. No one was sure if this was it since it was hard to see past it. If it’s not right it’s a hell of a place to get stuck.

Perhaps if we found a ranger at the time we would have asked. They were dispersed all though the reservation. With notepads, taking names and numbers in the party as well as checking wristbands. As a side note when we did get back to camp that evening I did read you are supposed to notify them if you do go off the reservation so they are aware of who is down there for safety reasons. So it is doable They just probably don’t make it too easy for obvious reasons.

Facing the fact we are not going to go any further today, we start the hike back. During this time, we find a picnic table and eat the lunch we brought.

This brings up a trivial but interesting topic of discussion. How and who got all these random picnic tables this far down the canyon? Were all the materials brought in my hand? There is no way a horse gets down here. Were the materials air lifted in then built wherever? Where the whole tables just brought it? Every time we ran across one in the oddest random spots we had to wonder.

Not quite two hours later we are back at Mooney falls. Time to really get wet. We drop our gear off on a picnic table (of course!). I take my shirt off and we begin wading into the fury of the falls. The water is a bit on the cold side but more so it’s incredibly powerful. It takes a serious effort just to get near it with the force of waves and pounding water pushing you back. I get as close as I can, laughing the whole time at the ridiculous feeling and sound of being so close to this.

I come out and dry off a bit as we ponder the climb back out. I can already feel the bit of anxiety (or is it excitement) as we look at the rock wall. It’s a wet and muddy climb up, but we make it.

We work our way back to camp, change out of our wet clothes and shoes and warm up a bit. So far the weather has been great. Highs in the upper 60’s with lows in the mid 30’s with some sun and some clouds, nothing too extreme. This was one of my biggest concerns on booking this trip so late in the year. Would it be too cold to enjoy any of the water? It wasn’t summer by any means but we were able to enjoy it regardless.

Darkness falls fast tonight. We eat dinner and play some more cards. During a hand we feel rain drops. Over the past hour or so the sky has clouded up and now we get rain? We hustle in the dark to put up our tarps. We originally left them off because we did not think we would need them, sleeping under the stars. We get the tarps up and no more than 30 minutes later all the clouds disappear and its back to near full-moon clear skies. Oh well. We leave the tarps up anyway as the wind did pick up considerably and they help break that a bit.

Day Five

We had an easy relaxing day today and the morning was full sun. The colors and light that came though the canyon at sunrise were spectacular. The water was a kaleidoscope of blues and white changing as the sun quickly moved through the slot canyon.

With the big side trip of the week done yesterday, today we head back to the other large falls, Havasua Falls. It’s not a big as Mooney but it’s easily as breathtaking. Its also much easier to access. The top, bottom and sides are all without the excitement of wet wall scaling. The sun is out in force today but it much cooler. After climbing all over and taking it all in, I attempt to swim in this one as well. Not a chance. The water was much colder than yesterday, almost icy. I thought that with the air temperatures being cooler it might not be so bad, I though wrong. I only got up to my knees before I bailed.

When we were done with this exploration, we were back at camp with lots of time to relax, read, play cards and talk. No cell phones, no people, no distractions. Truly an unwinding.

Dinner time rolled around and we had not one but two meals. We brought extra food and we could eat it or carry it back out. We ate it.

This night was clear and chilly. The moon was almost full, and the stars shone. I went to sleep and woke up a few hour later to look at the stars hoping the moon would have dipped a bit and allowed me to see more starlight. It was still high enough that you could see by the brightness. I went and sat on a table at the edge of Mooney falls. The sound of the water, the clear sky, the cool air. I breathe it all in.

Day Six

Sadly it's time to go back. We get up early have breakfast and coffee (I spill none of it) and are on the trail by 8:30 am. It’s a bit warmer today and this hike is all uphill.

About two miles in we make it to Supai and stop at the general store. I buy a cold root beer and a few candy bars for the trail. I donate the remainder of the gas cannister to the reservation. Better they use it than me just empty and trash it.

Before we continue we visit the little café. We were hoping for one more piece of fry bread. It was not meant to be, they don’t serve that until 11:00 AM.

Joel and I split the soda and head out.

Along the way we are passed in both directions by horse trains. Carrying packs for hikers and supplies and such for the tribe. They funniest thing to see was the large horse train that was for the post office. Those white USPS bins and Amazon.com boxes strapped to these horses was quite a site to see. You certainly get your moneys worth out of a Prime membership this way.

It’s much more difficult that the hike in was, that’s for sure. We take a few stops, drink water, eat those candy bars for some quick energy. Eventually we reach the base of the main ascent. The 2 miles of switchbacks up to the top of the canyon. The sun is out in full and its warming us up nicely just to make it more fun.

This last 2000 feet of up is hard. We pass some people,some people pass us. However, those people have no packs to speak of. One guy confessed that he wimped out and paid for them to carry his pack out by horse. Wimp or smart? At least we can say we did it the right way (PURIST!).

Finally, we reach the top. It takes us 90 minutes more to get our than it did to get down. Relieved and tired we drop the packs, dole out fist bumps, hugs and a few woooos! We did it.

After the short rest we drag our stuff to the car. Change into some clothes not full of sweat and dust and drink a lot of the water we left in the car just for this moment. We look around and take it all in. A few more deep breaths before we start the four plus hour drive back to Las Vegas.

We settle in and play whatever music I have on my phone, because there is still no service. We sing along and talk about what we will eat for dinner when we get back to Vegas. A giant burger? A cold beer? Whatever it would be it would be good.

As we approached the Arizona/Nevada border we decide to stop and quick tour the Hoover Dam. It’s on the way and who knows the next time we would be back this way.

We have about 45 minutes as the dam closes at dusk. We make it an abbreviated tour. Incredible engineering; the structure, the bridge. We had just witnessed so much natural wonderment, now we stood looking at some man-made wonderment.

We eventually arrive in Vegas. This time we are staying at a more typical Vegas hotel. The NY NY Hotel and Casino. It’s a nice place, big rooms and cheap on top of it. We drag our gear up to the room. Take some much-needed showers get dressed in clean clothes and go get the burgers and beers we were talking about!

After dinner we walk around a bit on the strip again (as if we had not walked enough). We hit a little bar for a night cap/celebratory drink.

Day Seven

We both sleep as late as we can. Grab some eats and pack our bags. Of course, before we go we have to ride the roller coaster that is part of the hotel. Joel and I add it to the long list of coasters we have ridden together. Good times.

The flight home was uneventful. We talked about the trip and what we had seen. When we might want to go back here as well as what we could do next for an adventure.....

See all the pictures Here and the full length motion picture Here.

October!

Here it is October already, best month of the year.

Due to too much going on for a lot of people, there will be no weekend long, brother, son, father, daughter river trip this year up in the Northwoods of WI.  Just didn't work out and Tracy isn't quite ready for it yet.

With the week open for me I did a overnight hike I had been thinking about for a few weeks now. The weather was perfect 60's sunny some breezes. I decided to go for it.

I have hiked the entirety of the Kettle Moraine Northern Unit Ice Age Trail, more than once sections at a time. Today we would start at the top and do the whole enchilada in 1 day. Thats 3 counties, 31.6 official miles.

This was not as much as a get out and see the sights as a personal challenge. As mentioned, I have done this whole thing multiple times never much more than 12 miles in a day.

I packed up my gear Friday night and Saturday morning Tracy dropped me off at the County Hwy P trailhead just before 11 AM. I know seems a bit late but my intent was to go about 16 miles and as it got dark camp somewhere. All the 'legal' campsites were booked, so the less I was seen the better.

I got started and was just cruising, feeling great. I crossed Hwy 23 and started the half-mile road walk, this is where Joel and I started seeing all the storm clouds last time we hiked through here. Not today. I did pass a bar that was having a pumpkin chunkin charity thing. Most of the time I don't carry cash and today would be no different. And it was unfortunate. They were serving up all types of food and beverages and it would have been a great little treat. As it was I walked to the fields in the back and watched pumpkins get shot out of air cannons and trebuchets. Cool to see on TV even better in person, you could see and feel the machines do their thing.

After watching this for a bit I walked back to the trail. Stopped to turn my pants into shorts and reminisce about Joel and I scrambling to get pack covers on as the rain started pouring on us. This is the exact spot that happened.

I hiked for about 2 hours before getting to Greenbush Group camp.  Lots of people here today, bikers, hikers and horse riders. I stopped to eat a little bit and get some water from the well they have here.

After that I got back out and set my sites on the next stop, Butler Lake. Hiking was still very easy and I averaged over 3 miles per hour. Granted this is not a hard hike, there are a lot of elevation changes  but my pack was not that bad either. 

Eventually I got to Butler Lake, just around 4 PM. Way ahead of schedule, by almost 2 hours. I took off my pack, my shoes, my socks, changed shirts and made dinner. Some old dehydrated beef stroganoff and noodles I had from 2014. It was surprisingly good.

I eventually put my shoes and socks back on to head out, I had so much daylight left I had to keep going.

Eventually I got to the campsite that I tried to reserve. I kept on walking. Next up was Mauthe Lake state park. Possible I could get a walk up site there. The sign said 5.4 miles.  No problem.

Sunset was at 6:37 tonight and I walked through that and then some. I eventually got to the state park, which was actually 7.5 miles! Either I missed something or there is a mixed up sign. No matter, the ranger station was closed at 7 pm on Saturday. No camping here either. I put my headlamp on and kept going. The next site was 2 miles away. Would I see anyone, would I squat if there wasn't any one there? We will never know. When I got to the trail that takes you to the site, I remembered I had stayed here before and it was not good for hammocking. All the good trees were on steeper slopes, which sucks when you forget and get out of bed in the morning. I kept going. Eventually, around 8 PM I found a suitable place and stealth camped off the trail. Over 25 miles.The most I have ever done in one day. Hell, I have had 3 days to do less. I honestly even contemplated trying to go farther or even do the whole thing in one day. Although, I did not want to put Tracy on call to come get me at 11 PM or later. I was starting to tire and night hiking is not for the overly tired.

I slept pretty good and was packed up and on the trail before 6:45. Today I only had about 7 miles to go. I did about a mile before I came to a bench to make coffee and eat some breakfast. After that little bit of waking up I got back on the trail and eventually made it to the end at 9:45 AM.

My feet were a little beat up, but other than that, wasn't too bad.  With a lighter pack and earlier start I could have easily done the whole 31 miles in less than 12 hours straight. Although not sure I would want to. It was a good test for me to try to bite off a bit more trail on my next multi day trip though...

Photos HERE

Video Here